Muffler
 

Got a new muffler today and the directions said no pipe to manifold insert or gasket. Seal flange with muffler sealer. Is that what ya'all recommend? The manifold is also new.

John

Re: Muffler
 

I mounted my Aries just as the directions state with no insert or gasket with only the 1/4 bead of muffler sealer and it's worked perfectly.

Re: Muffler
 

Don't forget to replace your muffler bearing while you have it apart. :D

Re: Muffler
 

One trick I found that worked quite well. Support the muffler on a floor jack as you push it up against the manifold. Don't use too much force.

Charlie Stephens

Re: Muffler
 

As Charlie says use a floor jack to mate the muffler up to the manifold. Once you get it lined up just perfectly carefully lower the floor jack down just enough to put a small bead of muffler paste on the muffler flange. raise it back up into position and clamp it in place. Having a second person to help is a big plus when doing this.

Re: Muffler
 

I did as per posts #4 and 5 above, except I had not heard about muffler paste and just mine together dry. No problems to date (abut two years). BTW my MGB exhaust is fitted exactly the same way and has had no problems in five years.

Re: Muffler
 

I find mine works ok dry,but sealer doesn't hurt. One thing is some clamps are not made correctly and I think this results in problems. Original clamp or Aries clamp is good.

John

Re: Muffler
 

Would not recommend muffler sealer as it sets up like a rock and the manifold/exhaust pipe tends to flex from heat/cool cycling. If you have leaking problems, I would use the insert pipe to seal the junction. With extended use, carbon will seal this joint better than any sealer possibly could.

Re: Muffler
 

Rub grease inside the clamp & tap it as you tighten it. Buy the better quality clamp.
Has anyone tried the new clamp, that has NO nuts?
Bill Quiet

Re: Muffler
 

I agree with the tapping, i can hold the muffler up by hand and assemble the clamp and snug down the bolts then lightly tap the two halves together, amazing how much further they will tighten.

See the no nuts one creates the problem that all modern cars have: broken off bolts when in 10 years you have to replace the exhaust or remove it for some other reason. Worst case scenario for henrys design is a cutoff wheel to cut some bolts and reuse the clamp and less than $2 of new bolts.

There is a right way up to the clamp also - I wonder if people put them on upside down and that distorts the muffler side flange so when they realize its upside down or its not fitting THEN try to correctly install it it wont seal correctly.

Re: Muffler
 

The high temp sealer helps, if your manifold surface is PITTED!
Once, on here, a Guy made up a tool to reface that surface.
Bill W.

Re: Muffler
 

I really appreciate the threaded clamp that does not require washers/nuts. I could actually list my extra set of elbows and my extra hand!

Re: Muffler
 

For the no nuts style i would highly recommend puttign as much antisieze on the threads as possible. Sure most of it will burn off but the micro bits of metal thats in that stuff will be trapped in the threads acting like mini ball bearings upon removal.

Re: Muffler
 

Thanks for all the answers. Since I had new manifolds and muffler I installed like the directions with a small amount of sealer and greased up the clamp. I noted on another thread (that I can't find now) that others had problems with the angle of the two flanges. I did also until I discovered that the rear clamp had to be on top of the bottom frame flange, the angle was incorrect with it on the bottom of the frame flange.

John

Re: Muffler
 

Those were devised over here to help correct a design fault with the Model A. Using the original clamp was nearly impossible if you wanted the clutch to work.