1930 standard coupe Hi all.
Long time off the site but now with social distancing, I am starting to look at replacing the roof that I started 25 years ago but stopped because the sunroof was more appealing than driving in the rain. I have searched for threads or books showing instruction. I have what I consider a good library for my car but nothing. Is there a thread showing insulation of the top including headliner, wire,horsehair, top material and installing the nail strip. I’ve made all new ribs and the remaining wood is good. If the 19 virus continues, I plan on starting the interior. Rhinbeck is canceled and I haven’t heard if the Cider show in CT is canceled yet. So I have a lot of time Thanks. |
Re: 1930 standard coupe Hopefully the Cider show WON'T be cancelled. I've got some mags and parts to sell.
Great show. Paul in CT |
Re: 1930 standard coupe Start looking for top material as I understand it is unavailable at the moment.
Larry |
Re: 1930 standard coupe I’m in luck there. I have the black grained material in the original cardboard tube from Brattons in 1992.
Mice started eating it but they left me just enough to do the top. Small area for a standard coupe. So, I’m still looking for a detailed step by step instruction pictorial. |
Re: 1930 standard coupe There is a great link on here from about 5_6 years back. Don't have it o n this device. Try searching, if no luck I may have it on my computer.
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Re: 1930 standard coupe There is a $20 video DVD available for Mac's & maybe others but I haven't seen it. There was a good thread on the HAMB but all the photos are gone now. The general instructions in Volume 3 of the Restorer series of books from MAFCA are good for all closed car tops that use the retainer strips. Most folks use every other hole on the tack strip around the edges for tacking the top material down then they mark the in between the holes for the retainers with marks on the protective masking tape that should be laid down. The interface of the top material and the outer edge tack strip areas has to be sealed well or the top will leak. Don't tack the material down all the way until it's properly stretched & smoothed out all the way around. The retainers must be held solid at the ends so make sure the nails hold them well.
Do you have the original retainers? There are several types that are available now but they have to be formed to fit. |
Re: 1930 standard coupe Here's a link on Marco's old site:
https://web.archive.org/web/20160908...finstall-1.htm It's a Tudor but many of the techniques should apply to a coupe. |
Re: 1930 standard coupe Thank you Mr CHuDWaH
I was able to get onto Marco’s original site which I wasn’t able to do before. Did Marco take his site off line? Thanks for the link. That’s helping a little but I also have the cloth I took off almost 30 years ago and am matching rust stained holes and holes in the wood and am having luck so far matching holes So I’m reinstalling the original headliner and the top cloth to go thru the install process before I start with good material. And it’s a good thing because I’m seeing all the tricks. Not sure how the headliner ties into the top of the doors and the back window. Anybody with tips I welcome. Will continue tomorrow as I SD. |
Re: 1930 standard coupe Thanks Mr rotowrench
I have the aluminum retainer strip for the sides and back, one piece, saved from the demo in ‘90. I have a new aluminum strip for the front. What type of sealer is recommended when the job is complete. Also.....IMPORTANT.... Which way does the grain run in the top material? I assume front to back. Somebody look at their top and let me know. Thanks. Tom |
Re: 1930 standard coupe Yes, front to back.
Ken |
Re: 1930 standard coupe Ild have to question the wisdom of installing 28 yr old material.
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Re: 1930 standard coupe Quote:
You're welcome. Yes, Marco's site is offline - I think he had "real life" issues to attend to. The link I posted is the web archive that stores content of a lot of defunct sites. |
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