35 brake switch help Hey fellas,
So my brake lights stopped working. I’m thinking it a the switch so I thought I’d make sure I get all the right stuff. When searching for brake light switches for a 35 ford coupe two different kinds show up. This one http://i67.tinypic.com/33zfl91.jpg And this one http://i65.tinypic.com/534w8w.jpg Photo of my master http://i64.tinypic.com/15d070i.jpg http://i68.tinypic.com/2lasbvd.jpg My brake cylinder uses the second one so has my 35 master been swapped with something else? If so with what? Do I need to replace anything else besides the switch? What inside makes the switch work? Thanks! |
Re: 35 brake switch help Yes its been swapped. Its hard to tell what MC you have going by the photos ,touch the two wires together that should activate the light
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Re: 35 brake switch help "My brake cylinder uses the second one so has my 35 master been swapped with something else? If so with what? "
1935 Fords were mechanical brakes, Ford didn't go to hydraulic brakes until 1939. Your brake system has been converted to a later hydraulic system. Some people like the hydraulic brake switch and some don't. The photos you posted show an original style mechanical brake switch (the repos are considered junk by some!) and a later (post 1939) hydraulic switch. |
Re: 35 brake switch help I've got to start digging into the same problem on my 35 PU this week. I have hydraulics, use Type 5 brake fluid and a Harley low pressure switch.
Rotts of Ruck with yours. |
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Re: 35 brake switch help Test the wiring first, remove both wires and add a jumper wire between both wires, you may have a blown fuse. If you have a multimeter you can also check for voltage going to the switch.
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Re: 35 brake switch help Okay I used a jumper wire and the brake lights worked. Off to get a new switch.
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Re: 35 brake switch help Side question,
Because the switch is vertical and not horizontal how do you get the air bubble out? I would assume air would get trapped in the switch when installing. |
Re: 35 brake switch help No problem You're overthinking the situation.
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Not enough air to be concerned about. Just change it out. Be sure to get the Harley switch. In addition to being impervious to DOT5 fluid, it takes less pressure to activate. (at least mine does). |
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Bought both the Harley and the cheap replacement. I take it the Harley is low pressure due to the smaller hole? http://i64.tinypic.com/2q80r2h.jpg |
Re: 35 brake switch help The hole size has nothing to do with the pressure necessary to actuate. Kind of like 1/4" vs 3 /16" brake line won't show a difference in pressures. PSI is PSI, throughout a container system. That Harley switch is just designed with less pressure being necessary to make it work (,a lighter spring, probably). DD
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Re: 35 brake switch help Okay so everything works with the new Harley switch however there’s another issue that I noticed.
When I turn on the lights the tailights are lit up to the same brightness. When I turn them off and step on the pedal the driverside taillight doesn’t light up as bright as the passenger side. It’s really dim. This also happened when I used the jump wire to test if the switch was bad. Any ideas about that? |
Re: 35 brake switch help Tail lights and brake lights are two different filaments in one bulb. Might try swapping the bulbs side to side, but it could more resistance in the brake wire on the one side. Do you have turn signals, if so that could be where the difference is coming from.
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