Removing an Air Maze filter Had a leak from my carburetor (29 Tudor) and saw that the Air Maze filter
(mounted directly below it) was soaked with gas. Reading back over the many threads about the advantages and disadvantages of air filters, I've decided the risk of a fire there is more than I'm willing to take. I've stopped the leak, but I think I want to eliminate the filter. Simple enough to remove the filter cartridge, but what needs to be done about the filter holder and the U-shape connector to the carburetor? Is leaving it there (in case I later change my mind) a problem or do I need to remove it ... and do what? Thanks for your advice. |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter I am not sure I understand you. A picture would be good.
Charlie Stephens |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter I just removed the whole thing. Its just one set screw if I remember, I too run with it off most of the time.
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Re: Removing an Air Maze filter Whether to use an air filter or not has got a lot of attention on this board. If you've fixed your leaky carburetor there's really no reason to remove the filter--if you think you'd like to have one. If it was "soaked," you probably had one of the paper filter inserts. I think they come originally with a wire mesh filter (which is what I have) that is not likely, or as likely, to get soaked. I'm not sure if you can get the mesh filter separately if someone before you threw that part away. I know you can get the paper filters. Maybe somebody else knows.
Anyway, Hoovercw is correct, there's just a set screw to remove the whole thing. |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter I think this is the way to go. Closest to the original accessory. I would not use paper.
https://www.brattons.com/replacement...ze-filter.html |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter I use the wire mesh. Bought from Mikes-A- Fordable.
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Re: Removing an Air Maze filter Wire mesh should be soaked in oil so it traps the dust. When dirty you can rinse in gas and reoil.
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K@N Filter's are a Knock-off of these types of filters. The K@N oil Recharge kit is the best thing for these original screen's.
https://www.autozone.com/miscellaneo...-kit/92607_0_0 Regards Bill |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter Wire mesh ONLY traps BUTTERFLYS/ROCKS! Use a HIGH-MOUNT air cleaner, with a K&N element & you won't GRIND out your RINGS!
Bill Cleanair |
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Thanks |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter Boy, I sure miss the days when we cleaned something up and re-used it instead of throwing it away. I think one of the major things wrong with our society is throwing something away instead of re-using it. The old stone or pumice gas filters, the wire-mesh air filteres, and the toilet paper oil filters. Whoops, you couldn’t re-use one of those.
Mike |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter To answer Pal Al question, 3 filters were tried: the mesh, the paper and the washable K&N 6" long. The latter fit the air maze housing and carb. and required very slight carb idle air adjustments compared to no filter. The 1st 2 required more idle adjustment due to air restriction though we have no empirical numbers data to prove this. Other threads suggest the 5.5" or the 6" K&N seem to work OK due to the length of filter medium.
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Have heard the horror stories of a backfire and then an engine compartment fire. Thought the high boy K&N after market air filter may be a safer option. Al |
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Re: Removing an Air Maze filter Well, some interesting replies, but nobody has actually answered my question. I'll try again ...
Will simply removing the filter cartridge be acceptable or, should I remove the whole thing including the U-pipe connector to the carburetor. Anything to be added in its place? Thanks. Dave |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter I think Hoovercw pretty much answered your question. No nee to only take out the filter element and leave the rest. The set screw is the only thing that holds the whole thing on the carburetor air intake. If you leave it on you risk loosing it as the set screw is likely to loosen.
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You can also take the whole thing off with the one and only set screw holding it on. No, there is nothing that goes on in its place. Stock carbs had no filter. Odd, because roads were so dusty back then. Oh well.... |
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Just use the HIGH MOUNT filter with a K&N filter element & be done with it. I'm TIRED of preaching this! I'd give you a DISGUSTED Smiley Face, but they don't work anymore????? |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter They cause more problems than they will ever solve . Besides that, they are ugly and are not original . Henry didn't think that an air filter was needed , he must have been right !!! Probably more model A's have survived than any of the other cars of the time and they survived without a filter .
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Saturate the screen and let it drip back into the container of oil. After 5 minutes of dripping, install it, and the screen with a light oil coating should trap a lot of dust. Lots of lawn mowers used an oil wetted screen that needed to be rinsed in gas and re oiled. |
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Re: Removing an Air Maze filter IF you aren't running an air filter, just run your finger inside the air horn & FEEL the GRIT! That CRAP will destroy RINGS/CYLINDERS/PISTONS!!!
Where's your COMMON SENSE?---ALL modern cars run HIGH EFFICIENCY Air Filters. "OLD TIME" designers didn't know any BETTER! I've even dug through old pan sludge & rubbed GRIT, between my fingers! Why assemble new engines with GREAT Cleanliness & then DESTROY it, with NO AIR FILTER??? Model A engines are NOT OK, without an air FILTER! Years back, it was COMMON to do re-ring jobs at LOW mileages & trying to cut the BIG ridge on the cylinder walls. Nowadays, I've seen cars with cross hatch marks still showing, at even 180,000 Miles & some some engines up to 250,000 Miles & running FINE! With modern pleated air filters, I've seen them piled up with crap & "collapsing" with debris, when not changed often enough! Bill W. |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter I've got Purdy good model A common sense . I also have nearly 58 years of hands on experience with a lot of model A's . We don't use filters on our updraft carbs. My experience has shown rich operation and loss of power when any air filter is used on model A carburetors . I went out to a couple of our model A buildings and felt up a few carburetors on 4 of our model A's . I didn't feel any grit in any of my carbs . Two of these model A's are running dual updraft carbs . one of these cars has no engine pans and doesn't even run hood sides . I figure that most model A's aren't used for primary transportation . We do run original equipment type air filters on our modern cars that get used daily . I'm not expecting any of our model A's to go 250 thousand miles .I've still got my first model A that I got in 1960 , I've only needed to overhaul the engine twice and I've never ran an air filter on this model A . Things that apply to modern cars don't necessarily apply to the model A. People that have worked on modern cars for a living don't necessarily know much about the model A . I do realize that trying to give helpful info is a complete waste of time . As you've said before , Be your own man .Do what you feel is right and makes you happy. serious face .
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I'm PROUD of you for being your "OWN MAN"! We should ALL do that!---Even my Dog is his "OWN MAN"---He does unusual, strange things at times, that I can't figger out??? "Maybe it's some of his WILD DOG GENES, kickin' in.???? Men & Dogs have lived together for THOUSANDS of YEARS & have lurned what pleases each other! (Mans' BEST Friend!) Bro Bill W. |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter Dave remove the whole thing. the carburetor opening faced to the rear for a reason. It helped "filter the air". If you leave the 90 degree filter adapter on it will pick up more dirt.
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Re: Removing an Air Maze filter Thanks ... Steve H, Bill G and Kimlinh ....
Nice straight forward answers to a simple question. Cheers, Dave Y. |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter The K&N filter is not paper and so far is impervious to modern gas. It is cleaned with water / cleaner and then sprayed with kit oil provided. There are other special oils available for air cleaners that don't drip like oil bath types often soaked in 50wt. oil.
After 200 miles of running, it is amazing how much soot and new exhaust pipe flaked-off paint (improperly applied !!) that gets trapped in the K&N. It is a reddish color when cleaned. |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter You gotta do what you gotta do. As said earlier, you have to be happy with your car.
We have “always” run with the wire, dry, up draft, old style filter. Carburetor, when checked, has always been clean inside. I clean filter every 500 miles or so. We run with engine side pans. Engine idles very nicely and is very smooth driving with no dead spots. Zenith 1 carburetor. If engine back fires through carb, air cleaner retains flash. I would not run a gas engine of any kind without a filter. Why take the chance. But, you know, I change the oil every year with under 500 miles. It’s just my thing. Got my first Model A in 1960. I’ve got my rocker out in the garage right next to our 29. Car, dog, wife, kids, we spoil them all. Enjoy. |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter "I would not run a gas engine of any kind without a filter. Why take the chance."
X2 |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter I have PVC pipe parts to K&N air filters to my model A carburetors works fine and helps keep the oil clean.
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Re: Removing an Air Maze filter FWIW
I run a K&N E-3050 on an original air maze. There is no reduced air flow to the engine with the E-3050, it is adequately sizes for the size of the Model A engine displacement. The most notable difference is the color change, (accumulated dirt), in your engine oil. Without an air filter my engine oil was getting color at around 500 miles, with the K&N air filter the engine oil starts to get color around 1500 miles. I have over 30,000 miles on my Model A’s with the K&N E-3050. |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter Now, that is evidence we can wrap our heads around! Thank you!
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Re: Removing an Air Maze filter Those air maze filters dangling under the carburettor on that right angled thingy can't be used here and as far as I know, no one offers an air filter that will fit on a RHD car. I fit my own but it is a squeeze. I have to make a fitting to go on the carb intake, then up and to the right through the gap between the GAV rod and the steering column itself. A length of flexible hose like a vacuum cleaner uses then runs up to an ordinary paper element filter I mount on the radiator stays. I use one large enough that there is virtually no restriction to air flow but I pressure balance the carby anyway. These modern filters work very well as we all know and it is mounted up out of the way of most of the crap. Any fuel leaking from the carby can't get to the filter either so no fire danger. Mounting an air cleaner like this would be quite easy for you guys and your LHD cars.
The first thing I did to prepare my car for long distance touring was to fit a filter for air and oil and I'd do it again the same way. |
Re: Removing an Air Maze filter If you talk to yourself about something LOOOOOOOOOOONG enough, you can convince yourself of ANYTHING, either GOOD or BAD!
A Friend hasn't used a Furnace/Air Conditioner filter, for TEN (10) YEARS!!! And always complains about his SINUS PROBLEMS. Bill W. |
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SA Bill W. |
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Re: Removing an Air Maze filter [QUOTE=Ruth;1597840]160B, What is the height of the E-3050? The K&N site shows it a 3.5". Thanks.[/QUOTE
That is correct, it is the same length as the original air maze screen filter. See the attached photo. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/pictu...ictureid=36076 |
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Re: Removing an Air Maze filter FORTUNATELY, our noses have HAIR-FILTERS, but we still wear HIGH DOLLAR Breathing Apparatus! What about your POOR CAR???
Bill Boogers |
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