Two questions about oil leaks
 

1. Two years ago I had to change my timing gear. I replaced the upper rope seal and since I had the pan down, I also replaced the lower. Prior to reassembly I place a little goo (silicone maybe) on the frayed edges of each seal. I was real careful with everything and was sure that the front side wouldn’t leak. Wrong. Same degree of leakage as with the old seals. I also put some sealer on those bolts that screw up into the cover.
2. Similar issue in the rear. Is it possible that the oil drain tube that screws into the rear main is threaded in so far that it breaches the housing and that it’s restricting the flow back into the pan?

Grrrrrr!


Thanks
Leo

2.

Re: Two questions about oil leaks
 

If it does not rattle . . . . . how do you know it is there ?

In fact, rattles are a very important and necessary part of an old car. So much so that in 1913 (April 1st) a patent was issued (#459B33k) giving universal rights to any and all car manufacturer who chose to use them.

Most manufacturers went for the least expensive manufacturing techniques - those techniques caused the rattle to not work at first, but after a few months, or years in some cases, the rattles finally began to become evident and the money spent on them began to reward the car owner/driver for years to come. It was one of the most cost-effective parts ever installed on a car.



P.S. - foot note: the other most common part on an old car, that continues to work even to this day, is the patented (June 4, 1903) Oil Leak. Some claim that their car's Oil Leak does not work - do NOT buy a bridge from this fellow !

Re: Two questions about oil leaks
 

Leo,
Some of the upper timing cover bolts screw into an open space. Sometimes oil wicks through the threads & out of the slit in the lock washers, runs down & LOOKS like a ROPE SEAL LEAK! If so, remove each bolt & put a little sealer on the THREADS.
Bill Beenthere

Re: Two questions about oil leaks
 

Rear end leaks are kind of common. Usually from either worn main bearing, overfilling, plugged vent, or as you guessed a misinstalled drain (or missing drain). Start with the easy stuff. Check that your filler cap breathes. Read one of the many threads on here about the different dip stick lengths and then be sure your oil is at the right level. Run with your oil low, but between the marks, for a while to see if it helps. The A can be pretty sensitive.
After that, you'll need to pull the pan to check the tube and the rear main bearing. Both are fixable in place.

The front usually isn't a problem. I'm a little stumped there.

Re: Two questions about oil leaks
 

I have some oil leaks that drip on the driveway after 50 or so miles mainly from the radius rods. I washed everything down from front to back and top to bottom. Run the engine twice over a large pan for 30 minutes each time and no drops in the pan. Did I learn anything about where the leak is coming from?

Driveway is level the oil level at 1/2 and the oil pan is dry on the bottom.

John

Re: Two questions about oil leaks
 

Re: Two questions about oil leaks
 

They must be a lot like old Harleys, "You know there out of oil when they don't leave an oil spot."

Re: Two questions about oil leaks
 

That's not an oil leak, that's just perspiration from all that horsepower.

Re: Two questions about oil leaks
 

A RUNNING Horse LATHERS up, to help COOL Himself!:eek:
Bill Oldwesternbuff

Re: Two questions about oil leaks
 

Bill, cools off the jockey too.