head that won't budge
 

Hey guys, I’m in need of suggestions. I removed all the nuts from the head bolts and cannot get that head to budge. I’m sure that the previous owner used a head gasket sealer or maybe glue. Whatever he used, it would have worked great if the head had been torqued correctly. It wasn’t. I’ve tapped the head with a small ballpeen hammer, but it’s going to take a lot more than that to break it loose. I thought about finding a really big bolt to screw into one of the spark plug holes and using a head bolt with the nut on as a fulcrum. However, I don’t want to screw up that head so shoot some ideas this way.

Thanks, Mike

Re: head that won't budge
 

Start the engine with the stud nuts off. The head will come up a little after running. It might rise immediately or in a few seconds. Don't run the engine too long without coolant, though. If the head doesn't pop up in 10 seconds or so, stop. Let the engine cool and try again. Once the head moves upwards, the engine will die from lack of compression and then you can pry or use a spark plug eye or T-lift to bring the head up the rest of the way. If possible, unscrew the two tall front studs before doing anything. These are the most difficult studs for the head to clear because of their length and because they are usually corroded from holding the water neck in place. Without them, pulling the head up and off will be MUCH easier.
Marshall

Re: head that won't budge
 

I would suggest that you buy the head puller from Snyder's or Bert's.

Marc

Re: head that won't budge
 

What ever you do,,,,,,,,don't put small pieces of rope in the cylinders thru the spark plug holes and crank it over as some people recommend. Just my 2 1/2 cents.

Re: head that won't budge
 

Try obtaining some LOCK (Thin) nuts and see if any of the head bolts can be removed that way. (Two lock nuts, then unscrew)

Re: head that won't budge
 

Head is likely be held by rusty studs rather than sealer.

Soak the studs with your favorite penetrating oil - I like Gibbs Brand Lubricant - Be sure to allow it plenty of time to soak - Several days if you have the time. Spray it down daily.

Bruce gave you good advice to attempt to turn the studs - Doesn't take much just enough to break the bond. Patience is a virtue. Try to rush the project and you're likely wring off studs.

The head puller is another great suggestion as I've always been leery of trying to drive a putty knife or screwdriver between the head and block.

Use plenty of Anti-Seize on the stud shoulder during reassembly - It may make it easier to remove the next time. Seal any studs that go into the water jacket with Permatex #1

Re: head that won't budge
 

http://i63.tinypic.com/2n6hldg.jpg

took a fifty year rusted on head off,soaked it with this stuff..

Re: head that won't budge
 

I recently had the same head issue. Soaked the bolts, turning engine over popped the head, but I could not slid it off the bolts.
Harbor frieght has door panel pry tools made of plastic. Used these to move it up, then a piece of aluminum stock.

Slowly rocking front and back up to clear the studs. All softer than the iron.

Good luck.

Re: head that won't budge
 

Just relax and get 42 putty knives and a hand full of screw drivers and slowly work it loose. Work from the corners and it will come off. Don't pinch, smash, your finger. Very easy to do. Stick with it and "worry it off" as a friend calls it.
When you do get it up a bit, put wooden blocks under it to keep it from slamming down. The studs will fight you.

Re: head that won't budge
 

I agree with Marc that getting the head puller from snyders will be the best move for a really stuck head. With all due respect to some heads that are really stuck good aren't coming loose with the engine compression. Been there.. done that, tried that.. it was never successful. I have pulled many heads with splitting the head gasket for protection to the head and block with multiple large screwdrivers starting at the corners and being careful not to get close to the valves. Using pry bars and large tire irons as things progress. I have even used an engine lift in eye bolts for pressure without success.

Soaking the head studs with a good penetrant like Kroil, gibbs, some like atf and acetone, etc is imperative. Be patient, methodical, and watch your engine valves, etc on the passenger side. If you have someone experienced at this I would get them to help. When you get it working up I have some wood blocks ( as Jackson noted as well) I use placing them front and back to help hold it up to keep from slipping back into place as I work it up over the front studs.

This summer our start up vehicle ( our annual start up party car that hasn't run in 25-50 years) needed the head pulled and it about fell off. Easiest that I've ever had. Although one of the toughest was a restored car that had been on the road a while and even pull from the engine lift didn't do it. The head puller is a real blessing. I would get that even though expensive ( or borrow one) as you will be glad you are using it.

soak it..soak it..soak it!
Best of luck!
Larry Shepard

Re: head that won't budge
 

Here is what works for me. Purchase an eye bolt used to lift an engine. Put it in the number 3 spark plug hole. Loosen all of the head nuts so that the are flush with the top of the head stud. Place a rag on top of a rear head stud/nut. Place a crowbar through the eye bolt and put the end of the crowbar on the top of the rear head stud/nut. Pry the crowbar up and it will separate the head. You can then change positioning of the eye bolt to the number 2 spark plug hole and repeat going to the front of the head. Good luck!

Re: head that won't budge
 

I've used this method on two stubborn heads... buy the eyebolt from Snyders that screws into the spark plug hole. Take a 40" +/- 2/4, drill a hole at 37" from one end - this becomes a fulcrom... set the 2x4 vertical on the floor (next to the block) with the hole near the head;take a long iron bar (I have an old axle) put it thru the wooden hole then thru the eye bolt and work your way up & down the 4 cylinders.... got to be cheaper that buying a "head remover" ???/

Re: head that won't budge
 

Bill Stipe makes this head puller that is also available from the vendors. I got mine from Bert's.

Real stubborn heads do require a bit of extra work, but this head puller hasn't failed to remove one yet.

Re: head that won't budge
 

X2 what Larry said. I do it the same way, and have also never had compression loosen a head.

Re: head that won't budge
 

Wow, apparently this is a common problem. I don’t remember having this much trouble when I had my A’s in the 50’s, but all of them were less than 30 years old. I don’t know if they had head gasket sealer like “Indian” back then. One of the cars I bought had two head gaskets on it. It ran OK, but lacked power. I pulled the head, had it milled, and the car ran great afterwards. I immediately sold it because I had found another car as a project. I realize now that although I loved owning A’s, it was the challenge of getting them running and looking good that I really enjoyed. Mom and Dad could never figure that out. Oh, by the way, I had so many hours of driving A’s in all types of weather on mud, snow, ice, and dry dirt that when I went to get my license in 1960, it was a breeze. That license didn’t last long because I bought a black ’59 TR-3 with a crumpled right front fender, and after I replaced the fender and put white racing stripes (two narrow with a wide one in the center). The very first ticket I got was for doing 110 in a 55 over Sylvan Hill leaving Portland, Oregon on my way to the beach. Boy, the cops and the judge hated the fact that a 16 year old had a sharp looking sports car that would even go 110.

For all of you who didn’t drive sharp looking cars as young people in the late 50’s and early 60’s it’s impossible to explain what it felt like to drive around with a terget on yourself and your car. We were fair game, and getting stopped for a supposed tail-light being out, or being stopped so a cop could slide his pack of cigarettes under the front of your car to check for clearance was normal. At least it was in the Portland, Oregon area. Talk about harrassment with a capital H.

I still miss those days, but they weren’t all good.

Mike

Re: head that won't budge
 

Carl G has the best answer.

Re: head that won't budge
 

Hey Mike, did that Tr3 look like this? :). Jeff

Re: head that won't budge
 

http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/head-puller-kit

this style works really well also - dont need anything but a wrench.

Re: head that won't budge
 

Where did you buy this? :confused:
Might have to try it.

Re: head that won't budge
 

https://www.walmart.com/ip/CORROSION...&wl13=&veh=sem

http://www.corrosionx.com/

Ive been using penetrants for years,this is the best in my book..