1930 Front brakes
 

I am working on the front brakes of a 1930 Tudor sedan. The rollers on the front shoe are riding on the wedge correctly but the rear shoe rides outward and won't slide in the grooves on the wedge. It also hits the head of the bolt instead of going behind it. I installed new roller, wedge, bolt with washer new pins and upper adjusters. Is the rollers at the bottom of the brake shoe supposed to be able to run all the way up and down the wedge? Each time I try to upload the photo of it the message states" upload failed". Some time the photos will up load and some times they won't.https://i.imgur.com/SBpMB4j.jpg

Re: 1930 Front brakes
 

Picture is too high-resolution. Gotta shrink it before it'll upload.

Re: 1930 Front brakes
 

I am trying to down load from imgur but I don't use it enough to remember how I did it last.

Re: 1930 Front brakes
 

Here is pictures of the front brake. What do I have wrong? When I install the bolt the head interferes with the rollers. Also the new spacer and bolt head are both .025 thinner metal than the ones I took out. According to manual the upper studs they were in backward so I changed them after taking this picture. Do I need to grind the head of the bolt down so the roller pass it or is it supposed to be mounted over the roller so the roller passes underneath?

Re: 1930 Front brakes
 

looks like your rollers are not hitting the back stop, ie plate that goes on the backing first before anchor bolt goes in....see picture ..your plate will look different , but they do same thing..roller goes in curved area that i'm measuring..this plate off a ted style setup..

Re: 1930 Front brakes
 

The head of the pin in the center of the rollers should rest, and roll on a track that is rivetted to the back plate. Show us only the back plate.

Re: 1930 Front brakes
 

As Jackson said the roller head must ride on the Track. If the wedge stud and outer washer and the tracks are good and correct at 1 5/16 the shoe will have to be lifted slightly into place on the track. By the way your small felt is incorrectly placed . It goes on between the spindle and backing plate when he backing plate is installed . NOT placed above the wedge as you have.
If you need a pill so be it . I would suggest new actuating pins if you haven’t already done so.
Larry shepard

Re: 1930 Front brakes
 

The lining is too long on the right hand (shown) shoe. May be catching on the roller track or?

Re: 1930 Front brakes
 

The lining shouldn't be longer than the shoe its self . I would shorten the lining on the long shoe . I also grind or file a taper on both ends of the lining . The tapered ends of the lining removes end drag and makes it possible or easier to get the brake drum over the shoes and installed .

Re: 1930 Front brakes
 

Looks like the tops of the linings are tapered, do they have the correct angle/taper?


The bottom of the linings are not tapered, and as posted above one is too long. The ends look a little funky/ragged. Is this due to them no being tapered?


Am asking, had a shop put on new linings and conversion to cast drums. Brakes have started to squeal when pressing firmly on the brake pedal as I am coming to a stop. Will be doing a brake wedge adjust for my 1st time, may have to pull the drums for my 1st time. Just a quick answer to the above 2 questions please so I do not hijack this thread, if needed will start a new thread if I have to pull the drums.

Re: 1930 Front brakes
 

I grind or file a taper from the ends of the shoe all the way to the edge of the rivet holes on both ends . The funky edges was probably caused by the lining not being tapered . Often the ends of the lining will slightly kick outward when the rivets are installed . Interference between the un tapered lining and the brake drum when the drums were installed . Sometimes installation can get desperate when the lining isn't tapered on the ends for good clearance .