Re: Engine Blow By or Not It's the cars built in self preservation feature
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Re: Engine Blow By or Not When dealing with blow-by the object needs to b to lessen the loss into the crankcase and not to provide more escapes i.e. pcv. The filler tub should be enough. A cylinder leakage test will identify how much and where the leakage is occurring. The break-in period is the time , usually about 300 miles, that the cylinder cross hatch and the rings have to wear in for the best seal. Ring gap is the other factor that can put a monkey in the works and it is 2 fold. Too tight and too wide. Those who start off a new motor with Synthetic oil are defeating the wear in process in my opinion. Sometimes things have to come apart to Re-do the walls a little rougher or the rings a little softer. As a last resort, before tearing town, might try running oil lower on the stick for a comparison. Holding a piece of paper over the fill tube with the cap removed is a way to compare your car to another. Question; If you have excessive leakage won't that give you pressure to the mains? You built a hot rod and didn't know it.
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Re: Engine Blow By or Not Quote:
John |
Re: Engine Blow By or Not I think your motor is just fine. I’ve had Model A’s since I was 15 (decades ago) and 2 professionally rebuilt engines always blew oil mist out of the stock breather cap given enough time. I’ve used a breather cap with flexible metal hose for many years, and the problem with mist and oil odors is nonexistent.
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Re: Engine Blow By or Not Quote:
As soon as I removed the flex pipe, then the left side of the engine got a light coating of oil mist. |
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