Old problem but new twist? Coolant loss I have a new Berg radiator -- WORKS GREAT -- New Head, New water pump. Any way the car runs great. However, it loses coolant a pint or so every 00 miles or so. No overheating seen nor is the fill line too high. I am assuming it is being burned through the head/block. How do I chase this down? Is it something i can live with? Just need some direction.
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Re: Old problem but new twist? Coolant loss 2 Attachment(s)
It will look like your losing coolant But it will find its own level! will not be full like a modern car.
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Re: Old problem but new twist? Coolant loss I've read on here that the level will settle in to a spot that fits the car. Most say that you probably won't see the coolant as it will be below the baffle of the radiator. Yours may not have this baffle. In simple terms the radiator pukes out what it doesn't want until it stops puking.
If you are saying that yours keeps dropping over and over without the addition of any added coolant then it has to be going somewhere. Bad head gasket or crack in block or head?? |
Re: Old problem but new twist? Coolant loss Pressurized system?? Do you have a recovery tank??
Paul in CT |
Re: Old problem but new twist? Coolant loss Check the torque on your head bolts for a start. If it is going into the engine, no you can’t live with it.
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Re: Old problem but new twist? Coolant loss Strap a bottle at the bottom of the radiator and run the overflow tube into it. Then fill the radiator and drive it.
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Re: Old problem but new twist? Coolant loss Had some minor seepage around a head bolt. Fixed the problem with some aluminized stop leak.
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Re: Old problem but new twist? Coolant loss Good afternoon...Just a short note...Our Model A's and many other flat head engines should be torqued once a year to keep them snug and happy. I suspect that many don't receive this level of care. Often if the head begins to come loose, the head gasket will fail and you will begin to loose water. If this problem is caught in the early stages, a new head gasket will do the job. If it is not caught, then an engine full of water is possible and that is often results in bad words! Ernie in Arizona
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Re: Old problem but new twist? Coolant loss Ernie, do you loosen the head bolts first to re-torque them?
Or do you just use the proper bolt torque sequence and re-torque without loosening them? fried okra |
Re: Old problem but new twist? Coolant loss Super question, I've been wondering the same thing. ;)
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Re: Old problem but new twist? Coolant loss Don't loosen, just retorque them.
I also have a Bergs, new pump and a new head. Fill it up with 50/50 yellow antifreeze and and just let it puke to its happy spot. I can not see the level in the tank after it pukes. It's about a quart or quart and a half low. Even on the hottest days driving at 55-60, I do not go over 190. No need to worry or do any other work than to let it find its own happy spot, and maybe drain it the following year and continue with the same procedure. |
Re: Old problem but new twist? Coolant loss Quote:
If they are rusty/frozen clean/wire brush the nuts and exposed threads, one at a time loosen enough just to break them free so they move, and re-torque. If they are in good shape - just re-torque. Do not use any lube/ATF/etc. on the threads. Torque values are speced for clean dry threads. |
Re: Old problem but new twist? Coolant loss That's too much water loss to be caused by loose head bolts or bad gasket. I had that problem when using a new V8 pump, it was pumping too much and forcing some out the overflow. My solution was pressurizing the system. The old V8 pump had 3 impellers, the new one 4. Same thing could be happening with an A pump, and/or a somewhat clogged radiator.
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Re: Old problem but new twist? Coolant loss I assume there is no indication of a leak? If it is getting into the cylinders, you can typically smell antifreeze in the exhaust.
I had an odd leak in my car that I thought was the water pump. Turned out if was the radiator hose and I had no idea. You might try tightening the hose clamps. |
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