VIN number 1930-A
 

I live in CA. I bought a car registered in PA. Here when you register an out of state car the DMV (Dept of Mtr Veh) needs to physically see the car to check out stuff. One of the things is the VIN number. I've heard it is on the frame under the body. The motor has a smooth 3" area in the center of the block up near the head. There is no number there....just smooth metal. Well DMV wants me to take the car to the Hwy Patrol and the will issue a new number and stamp it on the door frame. I really don't want this. I ordered a blank VIN number plate. Where do you think I should put it. Firewall, frame rail, door jam? And should I stamp the side of the engine block. Anyone else go through this?

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

Well beings they didn't have VIN number plates you may be opening a
can of worms.


Bob

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

What VIN number did you have in your existing paperwork? Was that the re-manufactured engine number. Perhaps you can have someone stamp that in that smooth area were the engine number goes. I know California does things different.

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

Bob C, I think you're right. But I sure don't want the CHP to stamp my door frame.

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

Henry's 31. The number that it was registered in PA is A-2421250. Is there a way to look it up to see if it is a valid number?

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

Replacement Model A blocks (not complete engines) did not have serial numbers. Model B blocks (if that happens to be what you have) didn't have serial numbers.

Your registration is for an engine/car built October 1929 (see http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/ABenginenumbers.htm). It is a stretch but that engine could have ended up in a 1930 vehicle. I would suggest you put the VIN plate you ordered in the trash can. It might work but it might turn out to be a very BIG and EXPENSIVE problem. Attached is the VIN tag the California Highway put on the door of my 1931 RDPU (with the last 3 digits blanked out). It would have to be a very high point restoration before I would find this objectionable.

Charlie Stephens

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

You also might want to check with your local AAA office, as they can help with car registration, and are usually much more user friendly then DMV. When I bought my out of state Model A, I used our local AAA office, whom had a specialist in old car registrations, and I was delighted with their service.

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

Resolving this should be YOUR NUMBER ONE PRIORITY. How do you know you don't have a stolen car and a phony title someone bought off of EBAY? Resolve it quickly while the person you bought it from remembers your name and (hopefully) will work with you. Plan on lifting the body before it is over.

Charlie Stephens

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

If you are confident that the VIN is valid and not fraud, then stamp the blank area where it should already have been. If you think the VIN is NOT valid, then you have a problem.

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

Charlie has it right, sometimes best to do whatever it takes, and benefit from less worries and expense in the future. Seems each state has its odd laws to register an older vehicle, or one "out of the norm".
I have a door-frame sticker on my '29 here in Delaware, took some time but worth it in the end. kb

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

Listen to Terryh.


the cost is 70. and saves a lot of grief.


and yes, stamp the block and add a tag to the firewall.

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

Texas requires a pencil rubbing of the number from the vehicle. At least Ford did put it on the frame. the Chevrolet cars only had it on the engine and engines are too easy to replace. In those cases, the state assigned number is preferable.

Pulling the body up from the frame is a major undertaking but sometimes it's the only way to verify the numbers. This is where the pencil rubbing is used here in TX so that you can bolt it back down after the check but I think I would take photos too. On a crusty frame, the numbers may not be visible there either but likely could be pulled up with forensic methods. I would want to see them myself. A person can check the body bolts & blocks for condition and make a map of shims and the like. If the doors or hood don't fit well then adjustments could be made during the process as long as it doesn't have a bowed frame or other structural problems.

Number stamps are available but that can get a person into trouble at times.

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

VIN numbers did not come into being until 1955. During assembly the engine serial number on the left side of the block was stamped on the top of the frame just aft of the left forward body bolt and is not visible without lifting the body. Always best if the engine number appears on the title (or vice versa). Lifting the body may solve the problem - but what if the frame number does not agree with the title - much can happen in nearly 90 years. Serious thought is warranted. Just as a side note, most engine builders will stamp any number you want after a rebuild.

Re: VIN number ???
 

I know I am being picky. But VIN stands for Vehicle Identification Number. So VIN Number would be Vehicle Identification Number Number or VINN. Maybe VINN Number is next, Vehicle Identification Number Number Number.


:D
Bob

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

Actually it should be " VIN ( vehicle identification number ) " the first time you use the abbreviation and then just VIN after that. Some of the abbreviations used around here really do need to be explained the first time used.

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

When I registered my car from Oregon, they had put a sticker in the door jamb and the DMV used that. I DID NOT tell them about the frame number.


Mike

Re: VIN number ???
 

I agree whole heartedly! In fact, I was just about to say the same thing.

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

Back in the day it was more of a serial number than what we have in the modern era. They are all for vehicle ID though so I don't worry about the nomenclature much. The word "number" can have a plural connotation without adding a S at the end. 1 million is a number even if it is a 1 followed by a lot of zeros. Now days they have all the letter/number codes added in with the linear number at the end.

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

And VIN and all its variants is not correct for the Model A. The Instruction Book uses "serial number" and says it is the engine number.

Re: VIN number 1930-A
 

So the number you have on the tittle A-2421250 comes up as October 4 1929 from the Model A Data base website Modelahouse.com.
So as we all know the engine was stamped first at the factory then as it was placed in the frame it was stamped with that number. So if you have a 1930 car it possibly could have a 29 motor but not sure. Also no Model A ever had a VIN tag on it so I would have to say the California DMV knows so I wouldn't put one on. So they might want you to pull the body anyway. Also if you stamp the block and they run the number it would come back to 1929 so I would just take the car down to the DMV with the tittle you have and see what happens because either way right now you have a 1930 car with a vin that comes back to 1929 car if they run it and if you stamp the number or make a vin tag you might get in trouble . I know I have a vin tag from California on ,my 30 and it is the same number on my block and my frame so not sure why they put tag on it but I had no problems registering it in IL because of this so in my opinion might be better to have them put one on the car Also now your car has a vin tag which if ever gets stolen is easier to identify since it has a tag .