Dealing with pitted body panels?
 

https://i.imgur.com/nQzsmL6.jpg?1

For all the fancy title and labeling this stuff is spray on body filler.HVLP gun turned up to 40lbs.gun wide open,if you run a 1.8 tip cut it a bit with laquer thinner,it gives better control and less stacking.Mix according to directions and shoot it when its cool,I shot it yesterday in 95 degree heat and it started setting up in the gun.But not before it did some magic,two or three light passes over the rust pits,let it set,cut with 180 grit and done,way less work than glazing putty..way faster too.it cuts with 180 nice,no paper clogging,it also finishes like a guide coat,you can 'read' it as you sand.it takes alot of product as opposed to paint,to level a coupe body it would take a whole gallon to cover.I masked off the areas that were good and just worked the rough spots..

Re: Dealing with pitted body panels?
 

I will tell you that all polyester-based high-build primers are great at filling, but I prefer using Evercoat's SelectSand or their SuperBuild simply because of the solids in the primer.


People do not realize how much time it takes to properly prime body panels. This becomes more of a critical item when your time has a value to it. Think of it in this light, to mix any polyester primer requires mix time and should be allowed to set while it cross-links. Therefore budget anywhere from 15-20 to shake it, mix it, allowing it to cross-link, and tp load your gun. Polyester primers are VERY sensitive to sprayed mil thicknesses. A painter needs to be using no less than a 2.0 tip (we use a 2.2), and the painter needs to apply no more than medium density coats. (It will trap air and not cure properly if heavy coats are applied) Also critical in that time is proper flash times (-the wait time between coats). In a spray booth environment where we can move a large quantity of air over the surface, we still find ourselves spending 15-20 minutes between coats. Longer times will be needed for no/low air circulation environments.


Generally speaking you will need to apply 3 medium coats to get a nice laydown and good build. If the laydown is not there (i.e.: very orange-peel like) then you will spend extra time/labor sanding the orange peel away. So not counting the time to stage the parts that are needing priming, you will have a minimum of an hour in spraying any poly-based high-build primer applied. Time is money, and if one product has half the solids at half the price, where you must re-prime the parts to get the same mil thickness build as the heavier solids product, is it the other the right product to use? I'm not saying the Eastwood is a bad product, but IMO there are better bangs for your buck and use of your valuable time.

Re: Dealing with pitted body panels?
 

A thought. Remember all polyester products take 10 days to through dry. After 10 days you'll get less shrinkage of the Topcoat. JP

Re: Dealing with pitted body panels?
 

Nope,not running a production shop.Am getting good results from an easy to apply product that does a good job.

Re: Dealing with pitted body panels?
 

That sounds like a good product. I used an evercoat liquid putty on my hot rod frame. A spray on would have made it easier.

John

Re: Dealing with pitted body panels?
 

Very interesting. Never used this. Will this stuff bury masking tape? Just asking to get an idea of thickness.

Re: Dealing with pitted body panels?
 

couple of coats it will,that the beauty of it,you can lay a blanket over your work and block sand it flat..I was skeptical till I used it,now I see where it can help.

Re: Dealing with pitted body panels?
 

After application, will the top coats reactivate the primer and shrink? Does it matter what top coat you apply?

Re: Dealing with pitted body panels?
 

How many use Ospho for the deep pits first and is it recommended even with blasting?

John

Re: Dealing with pitted body panels?
 

According to eastwood its shrink rate is non existent..you can apply on just about anything prepped,and top it with 2k primer.

I epoxy primed after blasting,it adheres greater direct to metal,pits and all

Re: Dealing with pitted body panels?
 

Fordcragar. You'll get no reaction from the topcoats as the primer has a activator. Not unless you put something over it with lacquer thinners in it. Then you'll sometimes get it wrinking, but you have to put it on really wet. Aermotor. Not a good idea to use Ospho or any kind of metal conditoner over sandblasted surfaces as the it will stay in the pits and cause rusting under the primer. I've had this problem in the past. JP

Re: Dealing with pitted body panels?
 

https://i.imgur.com/b3MyDSQ.jpg?1

Excellent results,door panel below belt line..80 degree ambient,measured and mixed hardener,1.8 tip on primer gun,reduced volume with wide pattern,light coats. Followed with long board and 320 paper. fill all imperfections and allows for shaping,now that I have a feel for the stuff Ill use it again.