Originally Posted by supereal (Post 1868423)

You would have to remove a large amount of material to realize any change in performance. Your best bet is to check with a performance vendor, such as Jegs, for a light flywheel. We resurface flywheels in our shop, and rebalance them, even if the cut was slight. Finding any performance parts for flathead has become difficult, and torque converters have largely replace flywheels with flex plates.

Originally Posted by Alaska Jim (Post 1868478)

only use an aluminum lightweight flywheel in a light car, or you may end up having to rev up the eng, and possibly slip the clutch to get rolling. the heavy flywheel prevents this by way of centrifugal force of the rotation of the flywheel/crank assembly. the light flywheels work in early cars like model A's 32-33's especially when robbed of their "extra" parts like fenders, hoods, etc. I think 8-10 lbs off an 8BA wheel is doable, but should be done by someone who has knowledgeable about how and where to remove the material

Originally Posted by jim1932 (Post 1868487)

http://www.godevilgarage.com/ Near Albany. He is on the Hamb I believe.

Originally Posted by Pete (Post 1868587)

At a place I worked many moons ago, we had a dedicated lathe for lightening flywheels. We did a lot of them. We always balanced them afterward. We never had any problems with any of them, EXCEPT ONE in a 32 roadster. I just happened to be the passenger and the driver was going to show me how he could full power shift (button shift) with his new light flywheel. He missed the one two shift, the engine went over 7K free winding and the flywheel exploded. It was a toss-up whether the car or the people got the worst of it.
They quit lightening flywheels. Too many possible harsh side effects.

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre (Post 1868608)

And getting mass to the center of flywheel does the same job...so hopefully there isn´t an 11" clutch on the flywheel you work with.
Just going from a 11" to a 9" does quite a bit to rotational mass.

Originally Posted by flatheadmurre (Post 1868608)

And getting mass to the center of flywheel does the same job...so hopefully there isn´t an 11" clutch on the flywheel you work with.
Just going from a 11" to a 9" does quite a bit to rotational mass.

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked (Post 1868713)

Exploding flywheel: Pete's story is one to pay attention too . . . I just don't like the potential of a cast iron flywheel to potentially grenade. (I'm not going to risk my feet to find out).

I'm currently having a special steel billet one made at RAM clutches (lightened and profile cut from their standard 33 lb version) - should come in about 24 - 26 lbs. I'm taking out the Fidanza aluminum one that I have in my 32 at the moment - just too light of a flywheel for normal street driving . . . have to slip the clutch a lot as it doesn't have enough reciprocating weight to make normal standing starts as easy/smooth as I'd like them.

I'll report back how I like the new one (once this dang shutdown of the world is over!).

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked (Post 1868713)

Exploding flywheel: Pete's story is one to pay attention too . . . I just don't like the potential of a cast iron flywheel to potentially grenade. (I'm not going to risk my feet to find out).

I'm currently having a special steel billet one made at RAM clutches (lightened and profile cut from their standard 33 lb version) - should come in about 24 - 26 lbs. I'm taking out the Fidanza aluminum one that I have in my 32 at the moment - just too light of a flywheel for normal street driving . . . have to slip the clutch a lot as it doesn't have enough reciprocating weight to make normal standing starts as easy/smooth as I'd like them.

I'll report back how I like the new one (once this dang shutdown of the world is over!).

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked (Post 1868713)

I'll report back how I like the new one (once this dang shutdown of the world is over!).