Enclosed Trailer
 

It's just started raining hard here, like every summer, in the south of the South. So my decision to choose an Anderson flatbed isn't working out. For an Enclosed Trailer what Mfg and dimensions would you recommended please.

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I am also in the market for an enclosed trailer with the same questions. What brand and size and price?

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I have a United 8.5x20. I really like it, but sometimes wish it was a 24'. However you have to have the truck to pull a 24'.

If I did it again I would think more about an aluminum trailer like a Legend, however your truck mileage remains the same. I pull my fathers 7.5x16 Legend aluminum trailer and get the same mileage as mine when both are empty. His weighs half as much as mine.

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i like a 24'er for a good overall size to move other cars also, i felt why not have that capability. 5200 lbs axles will give you a 10k gvw. i also like it to be 8.5 wide most newer come that way as the older models were 8.0. if you strictly only want it for an A a 16' will work but gets very tight so a 20' is better.
the trailers made in the south mainly georgia are built cheaper and cost much less (no name) than trailers made in the indiana ( name brand)area.
millenium
haulmark
united
are some name brands made in the indiana area
i dont know of any made in the south. most of your cheapo ebay specials are from georgia

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Also the cheaper trailers do not isolate the aluminum sides from the steel frame very well. I looked at a 5 year old trailer that had galvanic corrosion from the dissimilar metals touching. There were HOLES through the sides where the two met on that new of trailer. This was a big reason I bought my United, they seemed to do it well. I see LOTS of older United's still running around.

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It really depends on how much you want to spend. You can go to south Georgia & get a cheap enclosed trailer without a drive in door so you have to hang ramps off the back with an insane angle so if your vehicle is low you have to buy a second set to extend out more. these generally cost about half of a Featherlite OPEN trailer like my 3110. I think around $3850.00. In my experience you will not be happy with anything less than 24ft & definitely get the 6 lug 5200 lb axles with the tor-flex suspension for the best ride. Steel trailers are cheaper but heavier. Aluminum trailers are lighter, better quality but way more expensive. I believe a new Featherlite 24ft starts at about 14 grand. My 03 Amera Lite was 10.5k new in 03, but it only weighs 3170lbs See Pic. I love it!

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First you need to determine what you want to do with the trailer. Also, consider resale later. Make sure you have at least 5,000 lb axles (10,000 lbs. total), remember total weight is the trailer and what is in it, additional options like flooring, finished sidewalls and roof, cabinets, etc. add weight quickly. Look into a left side mid trailer (curb side type) door, this allows when open your car door to open into that space......makes entry and exit to your vehicle a lot easier! Aluminum is probably the very best, as the cost reflects, again assess what you need and how often you will use it. Good luck, I like my Pace American very much and there certainly are other makes out there....LouB.

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Remember you have to haul and store the trailer also.
Trailers are measured from rear to tongue, so a 24' trailer has useable length of 20 feet. The V up front always measures about 4 ft.
A 20 footer is about right for an A (that is what I use).
A 24' trailer is a monster. But an A is a short car, and if you want to be able to haul anything larger than an A you will need a 24 footer.
You need to have a truck with the balls to do the hauling. So forget a 4-cyl Ranger.
Having a ramp door at the rear would be really nice; way better than the side-opening doors with separate ramps. Wish I had the ramp door.
Get the equalizer hitch, you won't be sorry; the trailer will be much more stable.
Get the best tie-down straps you can, forget the cheapo HF crap. Your baby is inside that trailer. I use straps from AW Direct
www.awdirect.com
They sell to the towing/hauling/recovery industry and their quality is excellent.
Get a set of Bearing Buddies (get the original brand) your friendly FLAPS has them and use them and never have a trailer bearing problem again:)

Re: Enclosed Trailer
 

Get the best tie-down straps you can, forget the cheapo HF crap. Your baby is inside that trailer. I use straps from AW Direct
www.awdirect.com
They sell to the towing/hauling/recovery industry and their quality is excellent.
Get a set of Bearing Buddies (get the original brand) your friendly FLAPS has them and use them and never have a trailer bearing problem again:)[/QUOTE]



Great info about the straps sir, I see so much junk out on the road! If I could add something about the bearing buddies, Just because you have them does not mean you do not have to take the hubs apart to inspect from time to time & also most people "over lube" with bearing buddies causing the grease to get past the seals & get on the brake shoes
Bill

Re: Enclosed Trailer
 

Oh, and while you are getting ratchet tie-downs from AW Direct get your axle straps from them, too.
And tie down all 4 corners.
I knew a guy who tied only 2 corners and bad things happened.

And when you tie down, criss-cross the straps so the car won't hop when you hit a bump.
Are there any nasty bumps on today's interstates ???? haha

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All of the advice is good. It comes down to your particular needs and hopefully what they will be in the future as well as what you can afford. In my case I wanted all-aluminum (not axles, springs, and couplers of course). I bought mine directly from the factory in Elkhart and just across its border in Michigan. To accommodate all my cars I ordered a 22' enclosed and a 18' open (box & deck lengths). Supposedly, the V-nose is not any more aerodynamic, though popular, so I didn't get that as it added to the length for the car-usable part and I didn't need the storage. Again, it's what you need/want.

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Thanks a million for all of your comments and advice.

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My enclosed trailer was built in 2000 by a company that has gone out of business. It's 30 feet long and comfortably holds 2 Model As. I pull it with a Ford E350 V10 van. The van has 4 captain's chairs, cd player, a water/soda cooler, air conditioning, etc. Gas mileage isn't very good, but we often take another couple, and their Model A with us, and they help pay for the gas. It's been many places in all kinds of weather. I've always considered it a good investment. It will be at the MAFCA national this year

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It's not the size of your trailer...um, never mind that. I have a 16 foot, and it has plenty of room for the 13 foot car. Storage and turning around in tight areas is so much easier than the 22 foot I traded in. Unless you are towing a Cadillac, I don't think anything longer is warranted.

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My trailer is a 16 foot made by Transport Designs in PA. They make very high quality stuff. The trailer is mainly used to spull a small race car but the Model A will fit.

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I have had to rent a trailer twice to make the trip to Montana.

The first one was a 24' (white). Great for what we had to do that trip. Brought home car and furniture.

The second one was a 20' trailer. (grey) Plenty of room for the "A", but I did notice that I was having to work around the straps to get stuff out of it that we brought along. Also, this trailer had landing gear at the rear corners. Which was a great add on. I could use the trailer as a garage while out there. I didn't need the truck hooked up to keep the trailer nose on the ground when driving the car in and out.

Both trailer had the built in door ramp, and were both beaver tails. Which means, the ramp angle continued into the trailer a couple feet.

Both had big square wall hitting the head winds, which didn't help much on my fuel mileage.(not that I expected great fuel mileage anyway)

When it comes time to buy a trailer, the 24' will be my first choice. But, I will also look for one that has a Vnose front to help deflect the wind.

Keep an eye on craig's list. I saw one here that was 24' with cabinets and storage in the nose and wired for a generator to run over head lights and power outlets. $1900. Missed it by one day!

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Honestly you likely won't see any mileage increase from a V-nose.

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Yeah, I know. Just makes me feel better! This last trip I hit head winds both directions. Really stunk and a V-nose would have had just as much fun with it. I would like the extra room though.

Of course. if my tow vehicle didn't have 35's on it, that would help more! LOL

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did you have load equalizers?