shocks
 

I'm fairly new to the model a world and am learning alot. Just joined this site today. Learned alot here so far. I have a 29 Huckster with no shocks. I have been reading alot about this topic and am confused a bit. I drive the car and I'm not to keen on the modern shock look. Bill Stipes look great but are they around? Any ideas? Also, what link should I use? Dog bone or original? I go to shows, but don't really show for points. The truck rides tight in the rear, so do I have to put shocks all around? I don't know how much good they would do in the back.

Re: shocks
 

Original shocks are round in appearance and use a tubular link. Front arms have a slight bend to them where as back arms are straight. Bill Stipes shocks, although never having used any, I hear are excellent. You will notice a distinct improvement in the riding and cornering of your car with a full set of shocks fitted.

Re: shocks
 

Hi Brian and Welcome to the Forum. Post a Photo of Your Huckster so us Huckster Owners can see it. Read this thread, if you allready haven't about most of Huckster Owners here on the Barn.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showth...light=huckster
Here's Mine of which I built from a set of Plans

Re: shocks
 

Bill Stipe's shock are first rate, but expensive. Some other 'A' vendors offer them. that is, if there are any left. Properly rebuilt originals are also on the expensive side. However, good shocks do make a big difference.
When you say the rear is tight, I'm wondering what that means. These spring leaves have a tendency to cut into each other limiting the travel/movement or they could be frozen together. Its actually kinda fun, but dirty, to pull them apart and fix them, but, I've always enjoyed spring work.

Re: shocks
 

If by a tight ride you mean it hardly moves up and down, you may have a rear spring set up for a commercial, which means it is has enough leaves to support a load. If you rebuild the rear spring, you can remove one or two leaves to make it ride a bit softer. There is a spring leaf application chart floating around on this forum, if you find it, copy it and print it out, or if you don't find it, ask, someone will paste it here for you. It's a good reference, also, the rear spring gets discussed here often and a lot of good advice is here, including what between leaf lube to use etc.

Re: shocks
 

Brian, I too have a 29 Huckster. When I first finished it, I did not have shocks on it. Due to the fact that my body is rather heavy, I had to slow down going around corners. So I did put shocks on it and it now rides much better. I would put them all around. I purchase new aftermarket shocks from M & S hydraulics (503-642-1122) here in the Portland, OR area. But I think you get what you pay for.

Re: shocks
 

My M&S shocks leak constantly even after taking 2 of them back and getting them "fixed". Now I will only use shocks that I have had Robert Paul (719-478-5102) (Colorado) rebuild. Quality work, just give him time to do the work as he has a large work load.

Re: shocks
 

I second the Robert Paul nomination. A upstanding guy and a fair price for what is involved. You will like the vehicle better with shocks. The dogbones are fine but the rubber cups wear out and they get slopy the original tubular links hold up better.

Re: shocks
 

Just installed the third set of new shocks for customers and they all purchased them from Macs which included the arms, tube links and hardware for around $750/ set. I know what people say about the repros being junk but these were all good and give a good ride.

Re: shocks
 

I would like to add a bit. I installed a new set of 'oil-less' shocks [$700]. I won't say who made them, but, they are junk.

Re: shocks
 

Hello everyone, not savvy at navigating this site yet. Thank you all for your input. I bought a set of Stipe shocks through Brattons. Bill says he still has a few left. They are beautifully made and can't wait to install. Waiting for better weather. . Jazz, I added picture of the Huck, hope you like it. Your's is sharp. About "tight" ride in rear. Maybe stiff is more accurate. Springs are redone recently so they do move. It is a truck, so it rides a bit harsh. Also has 10 leaves. Not ready to pull one yet, think I'll live with it for now. I put the air in rear tires down to 32, which helped. With weight in the back it's pretty good. I found two full beer kegs do the trick! Really glad to be a part of the"A" world. Everyone is super helpful, the guys in my MARC group are great. Thanks again and I'll let you know how shocksa turn out, Brian

Re: shocks
 

Try Bert's Model A in Denver. They have rebuilt originals for sale. John Holland in Ohio also may have rebuilt originals for sale. Good original shocks rebuilt properly give a great ride and no modifications to the vehicle.

Re: shocks
 

Brian, I've been told by a couple of long timer A owners that all tires should have at least 34 psi. Below 34 psi there is a chance that a tire will roll off the wheels's rim.

Re: shocks
 

I can also recommend Robert Paul. Am installing a set I purchased from him but am having some difficulty with the new tube links.

Re: shocks
 

The tube links were a pain to install for me. If there is very much wear on the balls where thet connect, they have a tendency to come loose, fall apart and be lost. Absolute correctness in this area isn't necessary for me . I prefer the dog bone links .

Re: shocks
 

I will watch the pressure, try it at 34, may be good enough. Thanks,

Re: shocks
 

I recently had John Holland, (330)483-3896, rebuild the the shocks for my Model A. Only tow of the shocks were rebuildable from the set of four I sent him. He had rebuildable cores available for a reasonable charge. The shocks were returned on time and looked like brand new. The roadability of my A has much improved. I might add that John Holland did an excellent job.

Re: shocks
 

I talked to John and he said he was pretty busy. Sounded like a nice man. He was my first option, but I went with the Stipes instead. I heard he's really good.