Settling of the rear spring To install the rear spring on my '29 Tudor, I just put the rear spring "anti-squeek" material on top of my rear spring and synched everything down real good. I don't know the torque I used, but I did it by feel, where things felt "tight". That was two days ago. Then yesterday, I re-torqued the bolts and noticed they didn't seem tight like they did the day before - and I re-torqued them to "tight". So, today, I did the same -- I re-torqued the bolts, again. I don't think it's my imagination, but I think the anti-squeek material is settling, to where I need to take my time to let it settle completely before I stop tightening and put the cotter keys in. Any thoughts on this? Thanks.
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Re: Settling of the rear spring The anti-squeak goes between the floorpan and the top of the rear cross member. It does not go between the spring and the cross member.
So top to bottom; Floor pan Anti-squeak Cross member Spring |
Re: Settling of the rear spring Quote:
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Re: Settling of the rear spring Spring anti squeak won't do much good on top of the cross member ? I found it on top of the spring .
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Re: Settling of the rear spring I have always used material on to of the spring to cushion the crossmember. I like a leather strip and a bit of grease. I punch a hole for the spring bolt.
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Re: Settling of the rear spring 3 Attachment(s)
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It's designed to stop the squeak between the floorpan and the crossmember. Bratton's, Mac's, Mike's. -Tim |
Re: Settling of the rear spring Quote:
Sacramento Vintage Ford page 58 #129 Anti Squeak pad fits between crossmember and rear spring 1928 - 48 more than one way to stop a squeak .The Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook page 1 -282 Cut a 6" strip of welt to be placed between spring and cross member Cut a hole to clear center bolt . Glue to top leave . coat with grease . |
Re: Settling of the rear spring Thank you for the input, gentlemen. I think it makes sense to have something between the top of the spring and the cross member, just so it's not metal on metal. After all, even though it's not designed to have movement, there must be some slight movement between the spring and the cross member and, therefore, something that allows for movement without the metal on metal would be a good idea. I will give the piece a few days to fully settle and then put in the cotter keys. Thanks, again.
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