Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

First of all, let me say that this is my first post here at Ford Barn. I have been a member of the H.A.M.B. for several years now, and was told that I could get really good advice on my project here. I recently scored a stock 8Ba out of a '53 Customline. I have no history on the the engine as far as when it last ran, or if there were any problems with it. The guy that I bought it from told me that the engine turned freely, but that there were a few valves that would not close. I have always wanted a Flathead, and the price was right, so I bought it. I brought it home and started tearing into it. With some help from an older friend, I now have a bare block. From initial inspection, there is only one crack. And, it is no where near the cylinder bore. I am in the process now of getting all the rust/scale out of the water jackets. I am then going to de-grease it and send it to the machine shop to have it magnafluxed and pressure tested.

My plans are to build something more than stock, but not a race engine. It will be a cruiser, and something that I would like to get 20K miles out of. My flatty has the EAB heads, which I am going to reuse. My older friend has a 4" Merc crank that he is going to let me use. It will likely need to be ground because of some rusting on the journals. I am also going to run dual 94 carbs. Some immediate questions that I have are as follows.

1. The cylinders do not have much wear. Assuming that the block checks out at the machine shop, how much should it should it be bored?

2. Cam recommendation? I definitely want it to have that nasty, loping sound.

3. Adjustable lifters or not?

Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

For cam I would suggest the Isky 1007B as heard here with a 4" crank...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3-_wY0xHF4

I'd suggest inspecting the rear thrust surface on the crank before using it. That's the disc the back of the rear main bearing rides on. Be sure it is flat and smooth. If its rough and tapered to a knife edge, you'll wear your rods and wrist pins quickly.

Lonnie

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

Get in touch with Walt Dupont here on the barn. The Flathead King!

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

As far as a bore goes, I've done 3 8BA's and bored them all to 3 5/16" (1/8" over) with no problems. I figured since I had to buy a set of pistons anyway, why not go for a decent increase in displacement. (an 1/8" overbore increases the displacement by about 6%). Unless there are other problems (severe rust pitting or core shift which I have never seen), there should be room for a couple of more overbores, should they be needed. Realistically, in the entire scheme of things, most builds from this time period will probably be the last any of these engines see. For an engine that is not going to be raced, I wouldn't hesitate to go to 3 3/8" if I got as good a deal as I got on my last set of 3 5/16" pistons.

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

Your gonna need a different ignition with dual carbs.
A converted sbc delco is your best bet.
They are available from a few folk on here. Charlie Ny is great guy and will set you up with the ignition with mechanical AND vacuum advance, this is the best way. Bubba does them too but prefers to do mechanical only.
Don't buy a store bought ignition! These mostly have completely the wrong ignition curve.
Martin.

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

For best results bore near the minimum required to get clean-up and coordinate with pistons available.

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

Getting a copy of JWL's and Ol Ron's books would be good reads for you before starting your rebuild.
Welcome to the Fordbarn.

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

I agree with JWL, I would never bore any more than necessary. Any difference in a driver isn't worth it.

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

Even though we sell many kits that go directly to the 3.312" o'size I personally am in 100% agreement with John here. For a couple reasons, first, you shorten the life of the block for future builds, second (you may not totally believe this but dyno tests prove it for us on many builds), the "thinner" the walls the more power you lose, and third, there will no "major" power difference whether you go .030" over or .125" over. We are ONLY talking bore size here NOT stroke. You WILL pick up much with the upstroke but not so much from the add'l o'bore increase?

With respect to your build recommendations, when we do any Flatheads over here, there are 2 procedures that are NEVER open for debate, my customer's are made aware of this going in and I haven't had a single one "walk".

First one is the "block-plate" is used to finish the bore's, this is mandatory, and second one, they must agree to the bronze guide option. Everything else is "open to debate".

The only other item in the build strongly recommended here is the use of some type "moly" ring and preferably a newer style "metric" pack. We have them on the shelf for a smaller o'bore, but ONLY in +.040" (3.228"). We keep the Ross pistons on the shelf for this setup also but only for the 4.000" (stock-Merc) stroke. None of this is mandatory, only recommended, especially if you are "chasing" HP though.

For the 3.312" bore we have 6 kits on the shelf now at all times. Most are 3.312" x 4.250", very popular seller's! These straight-forward builds average 150+ HP and 250+ Torque easily.

(Add) The build in my signature below here I believe has close to 30,000 on it now. It is a very comfortable "driver" according to my friend, the owner. It was built a while back.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. We've learned over the years the value of block-plate honing and about valves "sticking/hanging" during storage periods. The bronze-line guides solve this particular issue. If your original guides are in decent shape you don't need to purchase new ones, simply line those originals,we do this all the time!

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

Here is what the JWL and Ol Ron look like, good place to start. I also included two other good sources.

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

Camshaft,
I'd say the 1007B isky for your stock heads. Available from Pete on here. With high compression heads, I'd go with the L100, this really needs high compression to get the benefit. More than the EAB heads deliver. I'm fully aware lots of folk have run this can with stock compression, and it'll sound real nice and work ok. But, big butt, this cam AND high compression will really wake you and the engine up! Trust me, I've done it. The L100 is currently available from kiwinus on here, he calls it the kiwi L100.
Both these chaps have different grinds available.
These two cams will have an aggressive idle and pull like a freight train from idle to 5500rpm ish on the 1007b and north of scary with the L100, I've had that one past 7000 rpm with a 3 3/4" crank and 9 1/4:1 heads !!!
Martin.
ps. I would use stock lifters and butt ground valves rather than adjustable ones. If you want adjustable ones, do the research and get hollow ones.
Martin.

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

Thank you for all of the comments so far. I am going to have the block checked first and move forward from there. It was my belief from the beginning that the minimal amount of bore the better (since it will be a driver). I am glad that everyone is confirming that. I am also glad to know that the Isky 1007B will work with my stock EAB heads. Good stuff! I am very excited about this build, and will continue to post updates.

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

Any opinions about the use of a Max1 with EAB heads?

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

G'Day low blow , good luck with your build , here is a short clip of the
KiWi-L100 cam in "CheaterPete's" awesome 32 roadster. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rwNDUhwwUbY
I can supply you with this cam or a 1007LD Isky I dom have other options also , its your choice & you will get many opinions . Scooder is a great source of info with real live experience !
Cheers
Tony

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

Ok, stupid question here!! When you talk about a 1007LD or an L100, you are not referring to "off the shelf cams", correct? Are these cams that have been ground to certain specs based on performance?

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

Yes that is correct. They are after market hot rod cams. L100 is an old Literio grind th 1007ld is an old Isky grind.
Cheers
Tony

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

I've been thinking about other questions to ask with regards to this build. Again, I am not buying anything for the engine until I verify that the block is good.

1. Gasket Sets (Engine & Carburetor) - Are all the same?

2. Oil Pump - Should I rebuild the existing pump or replace it with a new one? From what I have read, the standard volume pump will be sufficient. Can anyone confirm?

3. Converting to 12V - I want to do this. I know that there are several opinions on whether to just change the coils in the existing generator, replace with a 12V generator, or install a 12V alternator. I personally like the look of the generator on the engine. If the 12V changeover is simple and effective, I think that's the route I'd like to go. Also, would I have to change the starter, or will the existing 6V starter work?

Again, just throwing out questions as they come to mind. Thanks for your time and input!

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

Also, if you would like to see pics of the engine from the time I bought it until now, you can access the thread on the H.A.M.B. below.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/t...thead.1013594/

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

bump

Re: Rebuilding An 8Ba - Tips & Suggestions?
 

Here are a few points not previously mentioned.
1. In case you aren't aware the pistons for the 4" crank are different. So be sure to specify you have a 4" crank when you order parts.
2. valve clearance is critical. Using the heads you have is fine, but the valve clearance needs to be checked if you are increasing valve lift because your heads may have been milled. The cam in my video is a Isky Max I which is a new cam. My current flathead build is a Isky 400 jr regrind. Most parts houses sell new cams which, according to many, may be inferior to regrinds because of the material now being used in manufacturing.
3. I believe Melling 19 is the best choice for an oil pump. I would not trust a sixty year old oil pump, checked or not, with a lot of new parts..
4. Several options exist concerning a 12 volt distributor. I prefer Mallory/MSD units. Bubba has conversions that also work well. A one wire 12V alternator is pretty easy to install and gives you more space on the intake for carburetors. The 6volt starter works fine.

Good Luck