Coil readings what it it telling me 1 Attachment(s)
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=297063
I am trying to troubleshoot my no spark problem, here are my coil readings, brown coil is a Skip rebuild, black can coil is what was on my car when I bought it with a remote coil kit. Condenser in both cases is from Tubman. Where do I go from here. |
Re: Coil readings what it it telling me Check for voltage at coil neg terminal, which will indicate if ballast resistor and ignition which are a closed circuit. If the coil has voltage at negative terminal, then check for voltage at positive terminal and if you do turn motor over until no voltage. If voltage still exists on positive terminal, then take look at the points. Turn off the ignition switch and connect ohmmeter to positive coil terminal and turning motor over the ohmmeter should alternately show open circuit and closed circuit - zero resistance. Also, check the capacitor with the capacitance function of your meter. Is the capacitor grounded?
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Re: Coil readings what it it telling me I think readings on both coils are what they should be.
Skip's coil needs the ignition resistor back in the circuit. Will add about .5 ohm for total of about 1.5 ohm. Your can coil is about 1.5 ohm without the resistor. |
Re: Coil readings what it it telling me What ohms scale are you using for the secondary test? The 6.6 or 5.7 are lower than I usually see.
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Re: Coil readings what it it telling me Quote:
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Re: Coil readings what it it telling me HMMMM, now if we could just figure out what coil he is using, we could check the OEM specs to see if they're what they should be.
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Re: Coil readings what it it telling me I can’t find any markings on the round can coil except for plus and minus.
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Re: Coil readings what it it telling me What your readings are telling you is Skips original coil is 6V and needs the Ford series resistor. Your aftermarket coil is also 6V and does not need the Ford resistor. Both coils look good to go.
Resistance of the coils can basically tell you they look good, the real test is to put them in service. Testing with an ohmeter does not heat the devices up like they would in service after hours of driving. |
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