SLOW starter The starter in my '31 PU gave up the ghost after 40+ years of faithful service (just totally dead). I attempted an overhaul: cleaned up commutator, new bushings and brushes. It passes all the field continuity tests and the armature spins free, but when I jumper test it on the garage floor the armature just barely turns. Anyone have any advice on what to try next?
|
Re: SLOW starter Just my 2 cents worth here:
1) Maybe not getting good current flow through the brushes 2) bent shaft 3) bad ground I am NO electrical guru and welcome to the Barn! Mike |
Re: SLOW starter Quote:
|
Re: SLOW starter Ground-clean shinny bright and tight!! Out of car??? Getting good voltage ditto#3
|
Re: SLOW starter I would suspect that the brushes and/or the commutator are contaminated w/oil.
Are the brushes still long enough to get good spring pressure against the commutator? Clean the commutator off w/a good degreaser and try a new set of brushes. |
Re: SLOW starter If the starter switch is mounted during test, that may be the cause.
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showp...29&postcount=4 |
Re: SLOW starter Hello,
I do not know if I understand the problem correctly. When starting the cold engine with thick 25W-50 oil, I measure a current flow of about 150 amperes, the voltage drops to <5 volts. Both are normal. |
Re: SLOW starter Quote:
|
Re: SLOW starter Ground issue? Mine was spinning very slow when testing and i added a ground from the frame to the trans bell housing and much better. But if your testing on the floor then maybe you have a starter issue. Volt meters are a great way to narrow down the problem.
|
Re: SLOW starter By 'garage floor' I'm assuming you mean the starter is not in the car. Did you test the commutator ? Its an easy test with a continuity meter but you may have to take the armature to a shop for a growler test.
|
Re: SLOW starter Been there done that! Brushes in the wrong holders! I had the same exact problem. Corrected the brush locations, problem solved.
|
Re: SLOW starter Quote:
|
Re: SLOW starter 1 Attachment(s)
I wrote this in "mini starter" this morning and is quite applicable to this thread. It is copied and pasted. gary.
I had my Tourer (parked behind the ute in the picture below) converted to 12V some time back but not the starter. Each time I cranked I shuddered at the severe impact. I have busted 2 armature shafts so I purchased new field coils. had fitted and started so well. ONCE. Disassembled and packed the bendix so it wouldn't jam. Again it started so well. ONCE. At present I am awaiting the rebuilding of my starter with a 5/8 shaft and new bendix by the guru Synchro and I reckon he will rebuild like new. HOWEVER when I purchased the field coil I was unaware of the new light weight starter. I had one demonstrated to me at the Murray Bridge meet and it was a beauty. From my experience don't mess with your original starter, unless you are a concourse entrant, just buy a light weight. |
Re: SLOW starter Solved the slow starter. It was caused by a cold solder job on the soldered brushes. These connections are difficult. Requires a soldering iron of 200 watts. New wires have to be "tinned" properly before connecting to the lugs. Had I to do it over again I wouldn't have even replaced the solder connected brushes. I think proper operation is all about the condition of the commutator.
|
Re: SLOW starter Hooray...thanks for letting us know you fixed the problem!
|
Re: SLOW starter Another aspect of this problem may be a poor ground. The best way I know of getting a starter to turn faster is to ground it directly to the battery. The ground path through a lot of old , rusty, riveted joints is not good. Use a modern 12v cable and connect to the same bolt as where the primary ground strap connects. Put a large hole connection (not a battery connecter) the other end. Connect that end to a 3/8 starter bolt and go turn the key and press the starter. It should be able to turn faster and start quicker.
Terry Quote:
|
Re: SLOW starter If the brass-bronze field brushes are so badly worn that they must be replaced , I usually just pick a better core to overhaul . The field brushes usually last a lifetime or more . It is just too easy to ruin a good starter if you don't have the proper tools and experience to replace the field brushes . The ground brushes attach with screws and will usually suffice . The carbon ground brushes are the ones that wear the quickest and most . .
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:57 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.