59 block oil filter question
 

I read several threads on this and heard everything from don't use filter to install high dollar after market unit after drilling and tapping your block. I'm fine with changing oil regularly and forget the filter altogether, but if I can easily use this thing without danger of harming my engine I will. Without doing any research (bad idea), I plumbed it to the fitting just below the dipstick on the pan. I ran it this way for about 50 miles before my tranny lost 2nd gear. After reading these threads I'm wondering if I may be robbing some of my oil pressure by having it setup like this, not to mention the possibility of one of these hoses rupturing and dumping all my oil. My engine is a forty-six 59 block with Mercury heads and has the spot to bolt this filter on. I'm not really interested in block modification at this point. Thanks.

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

Do you have the .060 dia. restriction orfice in the fitting at the feed end. If not you will lose oil pressure. Phil

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

No, what does that look like, and where does it go? Thanks.

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

1/16 dia hole in the fitting which restricts the flow of oil to the filter thus raising the oil pressure in the engine.

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

Also, as I look at your pictures, it looks like you have the hose from the sender going into the bottom of your filter. It goes in the side and the hose at the bottom returns to the oil pan.

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

This is the layout for an 8BA system the 59AB is the same.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...1.jpg~original

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

Great information, thanks for the help guys!

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

The last three posts are bang on. The filter is only supposed to get about 5% of the flow. The filter medium is very fine, and can stay in the system for say 20,000 miles. It has a large surface area compared to the full flow filter element.

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

It is a standard by pass filter set up works fine when you have the lines in and out correctly installed.

R

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

51 MERC-CT, you are, once again, the champion of very illustrative graphics and diagrams. Luv 'em. Keep 'em comin'. It is definitely your forte. :)

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

The filter is supposed to be run with hard lines, not rubber hoses. If I were using rubber hoses I would put the .060" restrictor in the fitting as it leaves the block. That means the only pressure in the filter and the hoses will be from any resistance in the filter and the return line. If you put the restrictor at the filter inlet the hose that feeds it could be seeing 60psi or so at startup.

Mart.

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

No, now your filter will have 60 lbs of pressure also.

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

Can a person buy one of these restrictor fittings? I'm confused by the last post. The filter shouldn't have 60 lbs of pressure by moving the restrictor to the block fitting. The above illustration shows it just before entering the filter, which would allow full pressure on the line coming from the block. If I move it back to the block this should lower the pressure through the entire filter setup....correct? Anyway, can anyone tell me where I might acquire this special fitting, or do I need to make it? Thanks again.

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

This is an 8BA restrictor fitting (it also accepts the pressure sender) You could solder and drill a suitable fitting for the side of your filter.
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t.jpg~original

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

reverse the lines,use steel tubing & solder the elbow that goes in the side of filter & drill a 1/16" hole in it for a restrictor.The filter has nothing to do with the trans problem.

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

In the flow drawing it shows the oil pressure sender fitted in the "T" at the filter entrance. If you put it back down at the other orifice, at the back of the block, then what Mart has said is good. The restricter should only effect the flow to the filter. I would prefer to use silver solder (easy flow) to form the plug, instead of ordinary solder. Solder works though. The size of the hole is important. 51merc Ct's post is excellent information. Hard to beat the factories choice of size.
Once the oil has passed through the element, there should be no restriction of flow back to the sump
BTW, yes you were robbing the engine of some of its oil pressure.

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

In another thread a senior member stated that Ford and Fram filters have the restrictor built in. I had tested my oil pressure with a remote gauge while initially putting this engine in. I was getting roughly 60 lbs cold, then down to around 35-40 when warm. When I connected this filter, albeit backwards, I noticed no drop in oil pressure, and oil DID flow through the filter to the sump. is it possible the filter has restrictor built-in? Just wondering, and yes, I know my trans problem is totally unrelated.;)

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

Never heard of a cannister filter with a built in restrictor.
It is very possible that you would not loose much oil pressure because the oil exits the filter to the crankcase thru two .063 dia. holes in the center return tube.
See here--
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a1...t.jpg~original

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

The problem would be that the 60lb of pressure would be trying to lift the lid on that canister, so you still need the restricter on the line going in.

Re: 59 block oil filter question
 

I have a 1953 239 Ford Flathead with the rear oil cannister housing having the oil sending unit at the top rear (it had painted over decals which helped determined the year). However, while reading these posts I find related information for "oil cannister" and "oil filter cannister". Is there a difference and, if so, what is the newer filter equivalent? Now for my really big question: I removed the cannister housing (3 - 9/16th bracket bolts, not the 24 stud valve cover bolts), the two metal 1/4" lines and I can remove the top cover bolt seeing the internal spring, but the cover does not come off. Do I need another tool to grasp the stamped indentations to remove the cover from the housing unit? If it turns, what direction should I turn the cover (lefty loosey)?

UPDATE: I recently carted the oily mess to a local machine shop. The top cover has indented ridges, making one think, a oil filter wrench is needed to unscrew. However, hitting a couple of these indented ridges with a hammered punch will simply loosen the cover. The indented ridges function to tighten the cap on when the central bolt is tightened. Additionally, mine was so tight that the gasket material was smashed. There turned out to be a metal frame oil filter inside -- along with about an inch of thick river mud sludge in the bottom.