Question- RE Mounting The Tudor Body to the Frame
 

In the A parts catalogs they show frame welting and mounting block pads.

Question: Do you need both?

It's my understanding that the frame welting is for squeaking, but it your using the rubber pads as shims for door alignment it would seen there's no need for the special frame welting. Thoughts???

Thanks, Mark

Re: Question- RE Mounting The Tudor Body to the Frame
 

Frame welting goes between the frame and fenders and splash aprons. The rubber pads go between the splash aprons and body.


Bob

Re: Question- RE Mounting The Tudor Body to the Frame
 

As job noted the location useage, yes use both. I suggest you get your radiator and hood alignment nailed down. Shimming and location of the body on the frame and radiator are key. It can be a2 hour Job or 20 hours.
You will need your tank and cowl band on place along with all welting in shell and coal .
Best of luck
Larry Shepard

Re: Question- RE Mounting The Tudor Body to the Frame
 

Door fit is also a big consideration. It's best to make sure your frame is straight & square before putting the body on. The guys that built these cars had nice straight stuff to work with but that was a one shot deal. The cars are never quite as new & straight ever again.

Re: Question- RE Mounting The Tudor Body to the Frame
 

All, thanks for the feedback on the frame welting.

Would't the body square up if the holds in the frame and body have not been altered once you get the body bolts in? Where would you check for squareness from, LF to RR mount holes and RF to RR mounting? This would be pretty tough unless the body was suspended in air given all the obstructions in between for a measure tape.

Also, wouldn't you want to get the body set correctly then adjust the radiator?

Thanks.

Re: Question- RE Mounting The Tudor Body to the Frame
 

The body is more flimsy than the frame so it can be manipulated some to fit the frame. There are several articles about frame straightening out there. The model A is a straight top frame so it's easier than say the later Ford frames that are curved. Measuring from diagonally from one corner to the other corner on the opposite side then comparing it to the other diagonal measurement is the best way to check the frame for squareness. The body will fit the frame if it is square. Many frames can have a bow in the middle of the top rail or rails that will play hell on cowl to hood and A pillar to B pillar fit. It should be flat on the top of both rails and the corners should all touch on a flat floor or fixture when the frame is upside down. Slight variations can be shimmed but large variations are another animal.