Pan Gasket
 

I want to clean my oil pan/sump with the engine in the frame I have the gasket set ready for the reinstall, trouble is the more I look into doing it the more difficult it looks, Dave O'neill here in the UK said he would rather take out the engine than try doing it from underneath, don't really won't to do that, not lazy but age and health and all that. thanks for any suggestions.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

I also prefer removal of the engine to perform this procedure . With the engine upside down in my engine stand , it is much easier to do a good job of replacing the pan gasket than laying under the car with oil dripping .

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Purdy is right, but the overall time and energy, IMO, it is easier to do it in the car.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Doing the job in an engine stand you do it once,doing it upside down you might not like the results..that being said,some tips for doing it with the engine in the car..get the car up high enough for you to work comfortably,let it drain for a day or two..there are widgits called snap ups that make the job easier,it allows you to hold everything in place..

https://i.imgur.com/vBg2V8w.jpg?1

you screw them into the pan rail (5/16th's NC).removing the plug on the side of the block and using a piece of whittled wood to wedge the pump in place works too,avoid the desire to screw something in the hole,unless you buy the tool from the vendors. With the pan off,clean the oil pump screen,and if you feel ambitious check the main and rod bearings

Re: Pan Gasket
 

I did it at the tender age of 18, and with the oil pan full of oil since the drain plug was "spinning."

Going back I made "alignment pins" from 5/16 dowel which tapered down to nearly a point. Didn't have the "catch" like the plastic clips above, but this and a sissor-jack below did the trick.

I think I would still do it this way today. Pulling an engine has its own special challenge - and mistakes.

Joe K

Re: Pan Gasket
 

X2, especially letting it drain a day or 2. Not fun getting dripped on in teh head/face.:)

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Those look neat but an unnecessarily expensive solution to the problem. I just cut the heads off of 4 bolts and screw them into the block as alignment pins. I push the pan up to the block using the pins to align it and the add a couple of bolts to hold it in position. Then I remove the bolts used as alignment pins and add the remaining bolts.

Charlie Stephens

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Yes you can make your own..but they aint expensive and will allow you to stop on the way up..

https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-ES-72...hvdvcmdl=&hvlo

I am a CAMO (cheap ass model a owner) but I can crack ten bucks for a neat tool

Re: Pan Gasket
 

I've dropped the sump several times over the years. I think it is by far easier than removing the engine but that is just my preference. I never use any gizzmos to align the bolt holes, just a screw I made up to hold the oil pump in. The first bolts I put in are about half way along the engine, one each side, then work my way around the motor. Mine are driver cars so I have no issue with cutting a slot in the heads of the bolts accross the front. That makes it sooo much easier to tighten and remove them later.
The gasket is glued to the bottom of the block so it stays in place and I just refresh the dab of silicone I put at each end of the gaskets.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

I did it with the engine in the car too. Clean up the sealing surfaces real good and wipe them off with a clean cloth soaked with pure alcohol. From all the sealing-jobs I've done I reckon that this is one of the most important steps.



To hold the gaskets in place, I used small drops of instant glue, the gel-one, not the liquid-one.
Glue it with a small drop every 2 inches, starting with one end and keep it aligned with the holes. After holding it in place for 20s it stayed in place with my glue. Repeat that step until you are 4 or 5 inches from the end.
Now, place 2 drops on the gasket and align it with the end-gasket at the front/back.



For what it's worth I used the cork-gaskets and torqued the pan with (iirc) around 5 NM.


The new gaskets don't leak a drop, though I have to admit that it was exhausting. If I was 10 yrs older, I'd probably wouldn't want to do it that way.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

EJ, The Restorer March/April 2002 had a great write up about this, I followed it and had no leaks. Contact me via e-mail and I will send you the 3 page article.
[email protected]

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Hello EJ, I am doing the same job on my '30 tomorrow too. I am getting a lot of tips from the people you are talking with. But I came up with this idea. The thread size of the pan bolts is 5/16" So I am going to buy about four pieces of 'all thread' and screw them into the block at different places. They will hang out about 2" each just enough to allow me to put the pan on and then start screwing 4 nut to move the pan upward equally. They will be used as guides as well as moving the pan up towards the block evenly. Do you think this will work? I don't know yet but I think I'll try it. Good Luck with yours.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

looks good on paper, let us know the outcome.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Thank you all for your suggestions, must say I don't feel so apprehensive about doing it now, be a while before I do though, health problem at the moment, but I have taken in all you have said, thanks will let you know how I get on. EJ

Re: Pan Gasket
 

When you do do it, don't forget to use something to hold the oil pump up, as suggested in post #4.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

I also have the oil pan off,I made the tool to hold the oil pump from dropping down,it is a pipe plug with a threaded hole for a screw,Take the brass plug out of the side of the block screw in the pipe plug and run the screw in.I know it is no picnic laying under the car to replace the oil pan but a lot more work pulling the engine and if you do not have a frame spreader more trouble getting it back in.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

I have done this quite a few times over the years just to check out the bottom end . It really is simple . The semi circular plate has to come off first very early cars have 5 7/16" bolts the later has 3 . I put a small floor jack under the pan after the car is up on axle stands . I take a bit of weight on the floor jack and remove all the retaining bolts sometimes the pan needs a sideways bop to loosen the gasket seal . The oil pump will drop down with the pan but this does not matter easier to inspect it later . Do not use a bolt to hold the pump in place or you will damage the tapered hole {for ever). Before you put the pan back aided by the floor jack insert the pump back in the block and secure it in place by a cable tie through the adjacent bolt holes and around the back of the pump stalk .Engage several bolts to hold the pan up in place then snip the cable tie and pull it clear . When putting the flywheel cover plate back the middle one is a sod to fit,I cut the bolt short and leave the lock washer out .

John in Suffolk County England .

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Hey John, I just finished mine....from underneath too. That 3-bolt flywheel cover was the missing link to this project. In all the inquiries, even that 'Les Andrews' manual no mentioned that inspection plate. Once that was resolved it was not too bad.

Re: Pan Gasket
 

I don't know if it add to the helpful information or will just be another in a long line of advice, but here is a link. DON'T use the level of gasket sealant I used on my first try.

https://oldcarroadtrip.wordpress.com/2013/04/

Re: Pan Gasket
 

Here is some good pan gasket info... Just shared it on another post... Chap