Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

Collected all parts required (‘47 ford parts), all parts new or cleaned up refreshed. Got a few questions:
1-Is arcing the shoes really necessary? I’ve read the new replacement shoes fit & roundness is adequate to put on as is & break-in as done on newer vehicles I.e. late ‘60’s cars?

2-I’m using the ‘47 brakes all around as I have & r good with plans to convert to Lincoln Bendix type in front when $ allow. Will the Bendix type fit on direct swap when I do?

3-I’m using Richard’s Early Ford Garage Juice brake conversion kit ( uses existing brake pedal & linkage to single well ‘47 Master Cylinder. Any heads up on issues from anyone who used this set up on vehicle with fully assemble car I.e body on, engine / tranny in, interior in etc. would be appreciated!

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

1. It depends, but most likely the shoes will have to be arced to fit the drums. You can check each shoe by placing it in the drum. If they are fairly close you may be able to fit them using sandpaper in the drum and working on the shoe. On Bendix brakes this is not a big issue on Lockheed brakes it IS a big deal.

2. Not total sure I understand this question, but Bendix brakes require different backing plates, so it would require new backing plates and everything that connects to the backing plates. I also think it requires new drums as well. So not not much left except the hubs.

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

Thx J & on the Bendix for the front to do later I’m planning on buying the backing plate as part of kit offered by Early Ford Garage / Richard, Bolling Bros. Or Speed way. I’ve spoken to Richard about the Drums & the Lincoln 2” will fit on the ‘47 Lockheed’s or the Bendix. I am planning to buy the drums now as I can use later on Bendix to.

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

Most of my experience is with the F1/F100 setups, so I wasn't sure on the drums. :)

And on the F1/F100 setups I'm to cheap to spring for the price of the new custom drums, so I use a work around that I'm happy with, LOL.

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

Beware, there have been some complaints about the SpeedWay drums.
Paul in CT

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

Yup, STAY FAR AWAY from the Speedway drums! They look similar to the Boling Bros. units, but they ain't, for sure!!

'35 & '36 spindles are kind of "oddballs", and each is a 'ONE-YEAR-ONLY' piece. What the two years DO have in common is that the register that the backing plate fits over is the same size BOTH years, but SMALLER in diameter than the hole in '37-'48 backing plates. IF YOU KEEP YOUR '35 spindles, you're going to have to do some modifying to your backing plates.

<<NOW IS THE TIME TO CONVERT TO '37-'48 SPINDLES>>!

IF you do not change spindles, the size of the 4 holes...AND THE BOLT-CIRCLES in the spindles and backing plates...do NOT match. Most folks agree that welding-up the holes in the backing plates and then re-drilling new, smaller diameter holes on the correct bolt circle, is the way to do it, along with STILL having to use the "filler" ring for the hole size mis-match.

What you plan to do (the upgrade to hydraulics, especially the Bendix in front) is great....you'll never look back. But if it were me, I'd upgrade to the '37-48 spindles before the brake swap.

One more thing....."Krylon32" (Gary) is a dealer for the Boling Bros/MT brakes and offers a 10% discount to FordBarn members. DD






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Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

Thx Coop! I was planning on new 37-48 spindles as I needed king pins replaced, will do w new 37-48 spindles that include king pins! Thx for the Info on “Krykon 32” as well. Will definitely talk to Gary!

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

Also like Gary, great guy to deal with.

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

When I converted my '36 to hydraulics, I used a '39 front axle and backing plates, but had to reuse my '36 spindles, otherwise the tires would have stuck out too far.


Also, I had clearance problems between my left side dual exhaust and the master cylinder. I had to put some insulation between them to keep from boiling the brake fluid.

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

Thx for the heads up Steve!

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

Anthony .....IF you do decide to change to a '37-'41 axle, you MUST also use a '37-'40 WISHBONE, which will bolt-up and 'fit' perfectly (as an assembly) in a '35-'36. Just for an idea of axle fitments and wheel spacing in a '35-'36, this '36 of Heard's has a dropped '40 axle/wishbone and spindles. Those are stock 4"-wide Ford 16" wheels with 5.50 X R16 tires. DD


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...3&d=1475437504


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...7&d=1490920157

Another helpful little table!


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...7&d=1584421264

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

More good Info Coop! Thx!

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

Noticed a stainless steel sleeved ‘39-‘48 master cylinder & not much more than regular w/o SS sleeve. Sounds like a smart thing to do on a vehicle driven only a 1000 mile or so annually. Thoughts?

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

The originals were 1-1/16" bore. Does the new SS sleeve remain at 1-1/16" diameter? Hopefully, they have bored larger, and pressed-in 1-1/16" bore SS TUBE. Who is offering that SS cylinder? DD

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

Spec’s still say 1 1/16”
Must be bored out to accept sleeve with 1 1/16” ID. Speedway, I know many don’t like Them but I haven’t had an issue w anything I’ve gotten. They’ve even taken a return from me & paid for shipping back on an item I screwed up on. I will report back with issues.. I also bought their Drop Forged 37-41 spindles pre-milled to accept Bendix backing plates. I’ll report back on them as well.

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

I recommend copper-nickel tubing for ease of bending and flaring. You might want to make preliminary pieces with old copper or coat hanger wire to get things right before bending the lines. (And always slide the fitting nut on before flaring!)

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

:D Liked “ (And always slide the fitting nut on before flaring!)” ;)

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

I never did that :D, "And always slide the fitting nut on before flaring!"

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

Sorry,for confusion, brain dead correction :o! Changing‘35 to ‘37-‘48 rear hubs, will ‘35 hardware interchange, I.e., will original Bearing & hardware fit? Mine r in great shape (thinking previous owner replaced)!

Re: Finally starting my ‘35’s juice brake conversion
 

We've all screwed that up a time or two!

Or how about you DO slide it on (thinking you're covered), it slides down the tubing a bit, then you put a fairly tight radius bend above it, flare the tubing and then discover that your fitting is on the other side of the bend and won't slide back over the bend . . .

I've done that a few too many times as well! :eek: