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7-tooth steering box rebuild questions So I've read all the posts about grease in the steering box and the grease fittings and how they got there, etc. My question is, I'm rebuilding my steering box and I'll be needing to fill it with 600W and maybe top it up occasionally. What has everyone found is the most effective method to do this? Should I unscrew the fittings and use a tiny funnel? Should I buy a separate grease gun and somehow fill it with gear oil? Is there a fitting that I could use with an oil can? Not sure which approach is fastest and tidiest.
Separately, in the process of removing crud and gaskets and such, some debris unfortunately got in the box. What is the optimal method for cleaning the interior prior to reassembly? Spray with WD-40 and wipe it down with shop rags? Thanks all. |
Re: 7-tooth steering box rebuild questions At some time or other a previous owner of my roadster found a small oil resivor (sp) like from a steam engine and screwed it in. It is like a tiny funnel with a cap. It stays there. Works great, but don't know where you would find one. For my other cars, I bought a pump style oil can, with a flexible hose. It works good for steering and even for rear ends and transmissions if they aren't too low. Otherwise your hand gets pretty tired.
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Re: 7-tooth steering box rebuild questions OK, so you're thinking get an oil can for the gear oil. That makes sense. I already have one for 10W-30 oil. Do you find that the gear oil flows well enough with the oil can? I worry about the viscosity just overwhelming the little hand pump.
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Re: 7-tooth steering box rebuild questions Squeeze bottle
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How much "crud" got into the housing? I would if it is still apart i would use a low pressure compressed air to try and blow it out. Marvel Mystery Oil works great for a cleaning wash on things like that! |
Re: 7-tooth steering box rebuild questions First up, I recommend you use the end cap with the tube that goes up the steering shaft to higher than the oil so it can't leak.
I've seen 7 tooth steering boxes where the owner has put a plug in at the full oil level. (Not good for judging) He could then pump the lube in till it came out the new plug hole. It is the same pronciple as we see on the differential houising. |
Re: 7-tooth steering box rebuild questions It's funny, the original restorer put in the end cap with the tube... and then filled the box with grease.
Where is the full oil level? I was just going to fill from where the grease fittings are. |
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Re: 7-tooth steering box rebuild questions I suppose, given the viscosity of the 600W and with the use of a piston oil can, you could fill above the grease fitting location by pumping a few times after reaching the fill point and then quickly capping it. You'd just have to hope you hit the happy medium between where the upper bearing ends and where the inner tube that protects the horn rod ends.
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Re: 7-tooth steering box rebuild questions I always make a funnel out of paper and just throw it away after pouring in the oil .
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Re: 7-tooth steering box rebuild questions I fill the transmission, rear end ,steering box, and gas tank, untill it comes out of the fill hole.
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Re: 7-tooth steering box rebuild questions Gas can often damage the paint when allowed to spill over . I don't fill the backend all the way to the hole . If I can stick my finger in the hole and touch the oil-grease it is full enough for me . When the rear end is over filled it can over flow past the axle seals and contaminate the brake lining , depending on how level the parking place is .
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Re: 7-tooth steering box rebuild questions Follow up on this topic, I ended up buying a small piston oil can with a long flexible spout. It wouldn't pump the gear oil cold, but if I put the can in hot water for a few minutes it works perfectly. Had no trouble filling the rebuilt steering column, and now I can use this to top off the transmission and differential as well. Appreciate everyone's advice.
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