After Sandblastig...What have you found... After sandblasting a part, what have you found best to treat the part with before painting if left for a period of time?
Thanks. Pluck |
Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... Primer & then paint it.
Bill Shiny |
Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... Phosphoric Acid. There is general metal prep at the big box stores that have Phosphoric Acid mixed in.
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Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... Brent-
Do you treat as such if priming within hours of the blasting? |
Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... I agree with Brent, phosphoric acid. I have kept parts for almost a year after treating with phosphoric acid. You can spray or brush it on. I use a foam brush for small parts, and usually treat everything I do.
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Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... I like "picklex20", I have stuff hanging around that was treated over 5 years ago, the treated metal welds nicer too, on modern cars that live outside I have stopped repeating reoccurring rust bubbles from ordinary body shops with sandblasting, picklex20, epoxy primer--- more than 10 years with no signs of any rust
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Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... Warped sheet metal.
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Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... +2 Brent. Phosphoric acid works great. It stops the rust and gives the paint (primer) a good base. I use a product called Ospho, But there are others. Be careful some metal preps are mostly water with a little acid mixed in.
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Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... Pluck,
In 1979 I used lacquer primer and a Rustoleum gloss black enamel top coat (fish oil base), and to date there are not paint failures or rust on those parts. From 1998 to 2016 I used Krylon epoxy primer and Krylon gloss black enamel on parts that were absolutely rust free. I also used POR-15 Chassis Black epoxy on bare metal with a top coat of Krylon gloss black on parts that had some residual rust, and parts I wire brushed clean. POR-15 adheres tenaciously to bare metal, clean or rusty but it fades when exposed to the ultraviolet rays in sun light. The Krylon top coat is cosmetic, to avoid fading. Most importantly, all of my parts were cleaned with lacquer thinner before any painting. When using POR-15 or other epoxy primers, you need to consider that these paints are very strong thread lockers. Also, epoxy paints adhere very well to human skin. With POR-15, a little goes a long way. I did my the frame and most of the running gear of my 190A with just two half-quart cans applied by cheap throwaway brushes. Each part was given 2 light brush coats of POR-15. POR-15 flows so well that there are no residual brush marks. |
Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... Spraying it with a very heavy epoxy primer that I use. If you drop it in water for a while it doesn't rust. It also can sit around for years.
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Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... OSPHO - I use it always on fresh bare metal.
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Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... After blasting my fenders I found lead filler.
Old school repairs...no bondo Side question: When did they start using bondo? |
Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... I had first hand knowledge in early 60's
It was a well known commodity then |
Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... Quote:
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Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... Thank you all for the information...Will have to digest it all before I do some major parts cleaning.
Pluck |
Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... Quote:
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Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... We're on exactly the same page on it
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Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... Do you have to remove the phospho before painting? I thought it can be used as an etch and can be painted over ?
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Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... Follow the instructions, you can paint directly over it.
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Re: After Sandblastig...What have you found... Gibbs brand lubricant is another option and they state that it is safe for painting over it later. It is sold on Ebay and great as a rust preventative on guns and any metal. I have used it to prevent rust on metal sandblasted and cannot get to right away and clean later with mineral spirits or lacquer thinner than use the acid others have mentioned for adhesion. I think Gibbs is paint friendly cause of no silicones.
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