R10 pawl and blocker ring
 

I'm confused about the pawl and the blocker ring. When I put the blocker ring on, as shown in the picture, my pawl is hitting the blocker ring. Should the pawl be under the blocker ring? Then the blocker ring could rotate? I don't understand this part of the overdrive transmission. Thx

Re: R10 pawl and blocker ring
 

I'm a bit confused of your description of "Hitting the Blocker Ring". Hitting indicates movement of a mass with a sudden stop against some other mass. Most of this is due to some confusion in the manuals about nomenclature of these parts. The pawl has to be within the protruding arms of the balk ring.

The pawl should rest up against the trigger notch of the balk ring to prevent rotation of the ring. The balk ring has to be confined to a small area of movement to keep everything staged for action. When you let off the throttle to shift, the balk ring moves the trigger notch out of the way just enough so it can fit in to the window there to engage the sun gear plate part of the assembly which locks the overdrive into action. The assembly is referred to as the ring and plate assembly of which the balk ring and gear plate are both part of. Some of those photos refer to the balk ring as the "blocker ring" so I can see the confusion in that. The only true blocker rings are the ones in synchronizer of the transmission.

I hope this makes sense to you. All of the Borg Warner design overdrives work with the same principals. The pawl should slide easily in the housing there and back out far enough for assembly of the parts. It has to be installed in the correct position so that the rail can engage it when the system is locked out. It can only work in there if it is correctly installed.

Re: R10 pawl and blocker ring
 

So by the picture the blocker ring should be on each side of the pawl and not under it? The blocker ring moves up and down and I did not know if it should be all the way up so that the pawl could slide under it.

I'm also having trouble with the spring for the rail. I can't get my hand back in there to hold it to get it onto the rail once it is in the back half of the housing.

thanks for helping

Re: R10 pawl and blocker ring
 

The “blocker ring “ you referred to will allow the pawl to slide into one of the six slots in the balk gear when things are aligned for that to happen. The ring itself has to have a bit a tension where it wraps around the balk gear.....roughly 3lbs of tension force or “grip”.

The shift rail has its own built in spring. I assume you’re talking about the separate spring fitted in the housing. With the housing off the transmission, this spring is simply squeezed slightly and fitted into its place in the housing. We use a long drift punch to align it with the holes that the shift rail passes through. So when you drop the tail housing back on the shifter rail must pass through the openings in the housing (and thus the spring too) when you bring the parts together.

Re: R10 pawl and blocker ring
 

The balk ring got its name by the tension it has with the gear plate. This is what Mac is referring to. The tension is important for the shift action. When you let off the throttle above governor on speed, that tension is what allows the balk ring to move out of the way of the pawl so it to go on in and engage one of the six gear plate notches. It has to be in there just like the photo shows. If the pawl wasn't between the two protrusions of the balk ring, it could never engage the gear plate and lock the sun gear.

Re: R10 pawl and blocker ring
 

My spring, not the one already on the rail just falls out. I'll try and stretch it to make it stay in place and use a drift punch to align it. Thanks for the help.

Re: R10 pawl and blocker ring
 

Is this on a Ford application? If so, we have plenty of those springs. I’ve never taken one apart and discovered a loose fitting spring. Perhaps someone installed the wrong one before you obtained this transmission.

Re: R10 pawl and blocker ring
 

I've never has a problem with one either. I was wondering if you have the transmission oriented in a direction where gravity is working against you. The spring is there to aid the shift rail to move forward more easily. It will usually stay in place on the rail when the rail assembly is installed (tail housing installation).

The older units had the rail switch on either the back of the rail bore in the tail case or just above it. The ones with the switch on the back could be aided for spring alignment but those with the ball bearing above the rail to actuate the switch and those with no switch at all have no assembly aid there. All of them do have the spring though. It usually just stays on the rail when you assemble it all.