rear original shock arm question
 

Are the original 1930 rear shock arms the same, or is there a left and right arm difference to sort out first?

The MARC book did not discuss left and right that I could see, but a picture in Volume 11 Technical mag shows Left and right on page 115, so I am not sure now.

Thanks

Re: rear original shock arm question
 

The arms are the same for the rear, there is no difference between L or RH

Re: rear original shock arm question
 

Thanks.

Re: rear original shock arm question
 

There is a different, the castle nut should be on the bottom that holds the shock arm on the shock, therefor a left and right arm; same thing for the front arms.

Ron

Ignore my post it is wrong; I failed to engage BRAIN before opening MOUTH.

Arms are the same and will work either right or left, the bolt can be installed from either side.

Ron

Re: rear original shock arm question
 

FWIW

The arms are the same, the difference is the bolt is inserted into the arm from the top when installing the arm on either side. The boss on the arm where the bolt goes through is the same on both sides of the arm.

Re: rear original shock arm question
 

Thanks, I think I have them all the right way now. I did notice aftermarket bolts for the arms and the holes were different for the cotter keys and only my originals fit right.

Had to use a die set on the originals, but as usual the aftermarket bolts did not work for me. Same with frame mounts. Only originals are wide enough to hold right, not the V8 ones they sell as original for Model A which have heads that are are too small.

Re: rear original shock arm question
 

Be careful recutting old bolts with new dies. That can result in incorrect thread pitch. Things were different in 1930.

Re: rear original shock arm question
 

Thanks. Yes good idea to mention.

Luckily, I only needed to get the first couple threads re-cut and left the rest of the threads alone. The bolts were dinged only on the ends.

Re: rear original shock arm question
 

Good point. Also, never rechase the holes in the pumpkin and always use original bolts if the threads are good. If the tapped holes are full of gunk, a thin wire brush and some solvent cleans them.

This is an area where Henry used much tighter fit to eliminate leaks.