Just the Bolts & Nuts I am pretty new to the Model A game and have purchased this past year a pretty well restored 31 Vicky. I would appreciate some help on the following:
I would like to have on hand a pretty good assortment of commonly used bolts....nuts....screws...etc. It would be very helpful to know exact details of what I should look for when I go shopping. Would like to have a nice bin on hand with those plastic drawers supplied. A number of years ago I restored a 1960 Triumph TR3 and we had that information...and having the hardware on hand was most helpful. Thank you for any help. Gil NoCal |
Re: Just the Bolts & Nuts I'm not sure what the advantage would be. If the car is done it will be a rare occasion any fasteners would need replacing. Additionally, there is a chance the previous owner retained original hardware in some areas which would be a good thing.
In my opinion it would be worthwhile to get to know the car and only then make choices of what seems useful in parts, etc., to have on hand. |
Re: Just the Bolts & Nuts I think The Judging Standards are fun and helpful. The info compiled in them is probably 97% or higher correct and is about the best that can be done, though it gets revisions as reliable info surfaces. There is much fastener info there.
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Re: Just the Bolts & Nuts Welcome Gil,
An assortment of Cotter Pins will do you well. Paul |
Re: Just the Bolts & Nuts There are several publications that will tell you what parts, trim, hardware was used in the Model A. As for specific lists for specific body styles I know of none.
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Re: Just the Bolts & Nuts even then if its restored well no cotter pin will work loose (shouldnt), now yes its always nice to have and a kit like that can be had for $5 and doesnt take up much space (plus a billion other uses for cotter pins)
cant hurt to have a spare cap rotor plug and point set, all of that takes up less than a shoebox and will eventually wear out if driven alot. shouldnt be any leaks on a properly restored A but they can and will happen, having spare fluids would be nice (trans and rearend take somehting slightly special) but best thing of all is going over the car and making sure things that turn do and things that dont dont. also learning about the tricks of the trade and simple side of the highway testing techniques can get you out of a pickle if it arises. Also knowhing how each system or component does its thing will come in handy. knowing how its supposed to run/sound/operate is great and makes troubleshooting much much easier. |
Re: Just the Bolts & Nuts I think you will find a original bolt is better than any China bolt. Henry used good steel in all his fasteners.
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Re: Just the Bolts & Nuts Quote:
I cant imagine the time and unknowing it would take to get a box of bolts from china to detroit or any other plant he had...BUT if shipping methods were fast as they are today and being able to track and update quantities on the whim using a computer i would probably say yes he would have used china bolts (if china was even making bolts and such back then i dont know...) but in a nutshell original fasteners are much better than anything you can buy today* granted they arent so rusted they go from imperial to metric sizes on you... |
Re: Just the Bolts & Nuts Quote:
https://encrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com/i...jXT2X2jScq6cxL Joe K |
Re: Just the Bolts & Nuts It is not so easy with the A.
Some of the nuts and bolts and other threaded items are not normal threading. Ford used tighter tolerance threads then what common hardware today will have. Ford also used super hard nuts in some places. This means you have to look careful at the parts. Some screws in the body and less important places are normal threads. The nuts and threads on the radiator rods are all tight tolerance. I have stopped using tap and die on Ford stuff unless I know it is normal threading. I hand clean the threads and dress the threads with a thread file where there are problems. Of course you may have the problem on a restored car where someone clean the threads with tap and die. It should not be a major problem, but I think it increases the possibility of the fastener getting loose. So on my car you will find some ugly nuts and bolts. I have chosen fit and function over looks. If you run across someone throwing away all their old original fasteners offer to take them off their hands for them. There are many guys that will take all the old nasty original fasteners they can get. |
Re: Just the Bolts & Nuts Is anyone producing the correct head on pins now?
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Re: Just the Bolts & Nuts Also, join the Victoria Assocaiton. Tom Endy does a great newsletter and you can get all the back issues.
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Some piss & moan about the cheep China bolts & nuts, BUT think of times, out on a tour, when someone was able to get back "ON THE ROAD AGAIN" because somebody "just happened" to have some old cheep assed China bolts or nuts, rumbling around in the bottom of their tool box!!!
I tire of rhetoric, like, "If it's made in AMERICA, it's TOP QUALITY"! (B.S.!) Some American made stuff "may" be JUNK, also! Judge parts on their QUALITY! "Original is better"--NOT ALWAYS! Some old original stuff "may" be worn out/corroded out & beyond reseurection, except by a MIRACLE from SOMEWHERE! If I found an ooold set of points, in an ooold moldy cardboard box, in an ooold HEN HOUSE for 27 years, would I clean & use them, jist 'cause they were ORIGINAL? LAWSY MERCY NO!!! Bill W. |
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