Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

So I put 4" lowering blocks on my '49 Club Coupe but I want it to come down about another 3". The problem is with the 4" blocks and stock springs, getting the 205/75s on was a huge pain in the butt. I'm thinking of getting Jamco (St. Lois Spring) 4" drop leaf springs and 3" blocks. Are lowering leaf springs the same length eye to eye as the factory springs just de-arched or are the springs themselves shorter in length? If they droop down as much as the factory spring it would essentially be like having just a 3" block when pulling the tire off.

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

the problem is not the type of spring. the problem, whichever way you go, is the tires will still sit up inside the fender. I shortened the 3" blocks to 1.5" on my '60 for that exact reason. I had to jack the wheels up, disconnect the shock to let rear end down enough to removed the wheel. pain in the ***!

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

Just ran into the same thing while installing new Coker 205/75s on my newly acquired '51 Tudor. Previous owner had 3" lowering blocks installed and I couldn't barely install rear tires. I'll have to disconnect shocks for a little more drop. Probably going to remove the lowering blocks and see what the stance looks like. Don't like the idea of having to jump through these hoops just to remove/install back tires.

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

The springs are de-arched (have them on mine) and are correct length.
Have you given any consideration to the axles bottoming out on the frame or the driveshaft hitting the tunnel?

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

That's exactly why I want to find out if drop springs are the same length as stock springs just de-arched. Of course with no block the tires are easy to remove. If I can get the same 4" drop and have the same spring droop as stock it'll be the best of both worlds. I contacted the company but haven't heard back yet. Someone on here has to have a set of lowering leaf springs they can measure along the leaf surface from eye to pin, front and rear.

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

Thank you sir. You posted your response as I was posting my last response. So you have the 4" drop springs? Do they droop down far enough to easily remove the tire? I'm going to get a Gambino notch when the time comes and I'll work out the tunnel and all as needed.

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

My installation is on a '51 Merc. and I don't have the fender cut-out to tire issues but everything else is virtually the same.
Don't know what a Gambino :confused: notch is but this is my own notch that allows the use of the original rubber snubber.


https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/pictu...ictureid=44254

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

Does the spring/axle hang down the same amount as the factory spring did? Gambino customs is a company that sells suspension parts for pre 60s cars

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

No the axle does not hang as low when the car is lifted.
The primary difference is that the Mercury wheel opening is taller than the Ford opening plus I have opened it up to the full skirt size by flushing the skirts.

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

I got the measurements back from St Louis Spring. Their main leaf is about an inch and a half shorter than the factory leaf. I'm hoping that even if it doesn't drop down as far as the factory Spring does it'll still be easier to get the wheel off than with the 4" blocks. I'm also going to measure today to see if I have inner wheel clearance to run an S10 two wheel drive rear axle which will bring the drums in an inch or a little more on each side. I'm going to have to run 1" spacers to convert from the Chevy to the Ford bolt pattern but but I should be able to slide the tire between the drum and inner quarter without the spacer coming in contact with the tire so it'll give more clearance while keeping the track width pretty much the same as stock.

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

Quick edit...
I decided I'm going to use my factory main leaf on the new spring pack so it'll be the same overall length and should hang down just as far as stock. I may cut the eyes off their main leaf and add it to the pack while at the same time removing one of the other leafs so as to increase spring rate a bit. I also found the s10 2wd rear will have plenty of drum clearance and I may even be able to get away without the 1" wheel spacers which will make tire removal that much easier

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

With blocks and wheels you should put into the equation of a scrub line. If you blow a tire you don't want to blow a rear end. 4" blocks put my 53 with the ubolts on the tarmac if I blew a tire.

You'll need drive shaft and frame clearance. All those little things in lowering. Just thinking out loud.

Looks like you are figuring it out. Better plan then adding blocks.

Last thing I'd worry about with a lowered period 50s custom is changing a tire. But it is important to be able to actually get the tire off at some point!


If you are looking to drop frame. Air bags, tunnels and notches. Is most practical.




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Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

I was thinking about bagging the rear, and still may at some point. It just depends how low I can get it and still get that wheel off. I dont need to be super low, I just want my Foxcraft skirts to cover the entire rim and maaaaaybe some of the tire. The problem is, I want it to sit level. I'm doing the front right now with Aerostar coils and I'm in the process of flipping the uprights. The crossmember is going to be about 3.5 to 4" off the ground so i cant really go any lower

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

Both are good options for the front. Up till 54 it's hard to adjust the camber. There is L bracket that bolts to the frame and allows the upper arm to be bolted too and allowing adjusting camber with washers. I'll look for it.


If you blow a tire just call a flatbed. Just a price. Not that it happens a lot. I'm not against lowering it. Just be aware of the scrub-line. Make sure if you blow a tire there is still some room to ride rim and not bottom out to the ubolts/axle. The pie cutter biaplys are skinny and are easier to snake it out. Lift from the frame, I guess that is all you can do other then dropping the spring. Really not an issue when riding low. Just something to think about if you blow a tire. No big deal.

Have any pictures of your ride?

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

For a 53 and pre a-arm fords. Might not be an issue flipping spindles but the astro springs or both. Probably something that could be made also, might add a couple gussets.

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

Has to be hard on expensive tires... price of cool without understanding performance.


But to be fair about performance, guess it depends on the goal. Customs are for the ladies and wives, hotrods are for the boys. Best to have both

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

Don't forget brake adjustment access, Newc

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

I'm finally in the process of swapping springs. Quick question though, does the reverse eye go on the shackle end or the frame end, and does it negate the need for degree wedges? Of course I can cut the perches off and weld new ones on at whatever angle I need but it's crunch time now so the easier the better

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

It's been some time. I would hope that in that time you researched all of that.


Are you saying you only reversed one eye on the rear spring?

Re: Shoebox drop leaf springs with blocks
 

Another problem we had with our '60 with the 3" lowering blocks was that the frame was so low to the ground that I couldn't even get a small floor jack under the frame. Changing the tire along he road would be impossible. Even after shortening the blocks to 1.5" it would be a chore, if even possible. I have removed the rear tires in my garage but it is a real b***h!