Center main bearing My A knocked out the center main bearing. I am in the process of tearing it down and pulling the engine now.I do understand the there has always been a problem with keeping a good oil supply to this bearing. I have a core engine I bought some years ago that had an oil line going from the pump directly to the center main.
My question is, should I use this same technique on my current engine? |
Re: Center main bearing If the rest of the oiling system is stock, yes I would run that line. 3/16" tubing is all that is necessary, it gets oil to that main much more quickly than without it.
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Re: Center main bearing Quote:
The problem with those are, the little pipes crack from the vibration. The real stress on the center main is the heavy flywheel, they should be lightened. There may be some that say they have never had a problem with a oil line to the center main, and I have never installed one, but the ones I have rebuilt over were all broke, if brass, or copper, and cracked if steel line was used, your choice. Herm. |
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Herm, Why did those engines you rebuilt need to be rebuilt? Was it through normal wear and tear or was it the failure of the centre bearing. If so, did it fail because of the cracked line? FWIW, I use inserted bearings, lightened flywheel and direct feed to the bearing (25psi in one engine.) |
Re: Center main bearing Dennis Piranios has a kit for center main oiling, all the parts including taps, cheap, takes oil from the block passage not the pump. Have used it for years, no problem.
http://modelaparts.net/special.htm/p...entermain.html |
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Oil coming out the broken tube, shorted the bearings, all went bad. Herm. |
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That sounds better. Herm. |
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As I said, I have pressure fed the middle main. I'm unsure whether the engine would have survived what I have done with it (towing at 50 mph for tens of thousands of miles) without it. I've heard of guys getting 50,000 miles plus out of an inserted engine and using nothing but the original oiling system. They would have been only a solo car though. I drilled and tapped for a fitting in the vertical "shank" of the oil pump and ran a line horizontally to the bearing cap just below the block. Hope I explained that clearly enough! In one engine, I used a replumbed V8 pump and the other, one of those high volume, high pressure aluminium bodied pumps that were around a while ago with the built in 50 psi valve. On that one, I made a pressure relief valve for 25 psi because I believe 50 is too much pressure on the pump drive. |
Re: Center main bearing Unlike the front and rear main bearings, the center main reacts loads from all 4 cylinders. The rear main bearing reacts the flywheel, clutch loads and some of the loads from Cylinders 3 & 4.
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Re: Center main bearing Might take a look at secrets magazine ap 2010. page 14.
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Re: Center main bearing Quote:
PRESSURE OIL CENTER MAIN BEARING,LABOR $125.00 http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...pshgvxckrr.jpg |
Re: Center main bearing The crankshaft pressure is down, so adding the oil hole to the bottom as pictured is the worst place to add oil, unless you cut an oil passage into the babbit, and I wouldn't want to do that to the bottom babbit.
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Re: Center main bearing I have been studying this picture and wondering if oil passage could be drilled in the block delivering oil higher on the bearing and not having a line subject to breaking.
http://i412.photobucket.com/albums/p...pshgvxckrr.jpg |
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Re: Center main bearing If I was worried about adding direct oil pressure to the main bearings, I'd make feed pipes to fit the tubes in the valve chamber.
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Re: Center main bearing BTW, many think the center babbit fails due to lack of oil, but I think it fails due to high RPM and lack of counterweights.
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Re: Center main bearing Pirinnos (sp) has the center main kit for sale for $12. Call direct to order 940-382-2742. The web site is hard to figure out and get around in,
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Re: Center main bearing It may not be the best spot to put it but it works.
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