New block 1 Attachment(s)
I just got an 8BA engine in that I plan on using the block for designing a new 8BA block. I need to tear it apart and then I can begin modeling up a new one with whatever improvements people can come up with. Any positive input will be appreciated.
I have several people already interested in these. Tod |
Re: New block Cool where ya get it
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Re: New block Good luck, been tried several times before!
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Re: New block Quote:
Tod |
Re: New block Where in logansport
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Re: New block Tod,
I wonder if there would be more of a market for the pre 1948 24 stud blocks? I believe that they are shorter and a better fit for the early cars. I am just an observer and not a customer for either. Charlie Stephens |
Re: New block It seems that the old blocks had a tendency to crack. If you could eliminate that tendency, it would be great. I assume a design flaw in the original block, but what do I know?
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Re: New block Thicker decks, stronger main bearing web area, move end exhaust ports out and enlarge.
Hope you have deep pockets. |
Re: New block If you really want to reproduce this block, I suggest you talk to JWL and Ray Fedrosky. I also believe the block must be capable of receiving ALL fors original pieces parts.
Good luck |
Re: New block Go man Go!
Flatheads Forever! put an extra hole in the rear oil port to make the full flow oiling option easier, and thread ithe passage for a plug. I think a lot of the Canadian motors were done that way. |
Re: New block Quote:
Tod |
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Why would I need deep pockets? This is far from my first block project. Tod |
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To cast a block out of cast iron would be very difficult, developing the cores would be very difficult, on and on. The machine work along would be a major cost factor. I'm all for it if it could be done. |
Re: New block 2 Attachment(s)
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Tod |
Re: New block Yes, LOL. The flathead is a totally different animal. What are the foundry estimates? And who is building the core boxes? I have foundry experience and core design and manufacturing experience and know the cost involved. How many hours is involved in the machine work on say an FE block?
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Re: New block Tod, I realize you asked for suggested improvements, but for those of us that have not built a block, can you walk us through how you do it? I imagine things like lost foam and 3-d printers but would like to hear how you go about it.
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Re: New block He does very impressive work. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...-works.616056/
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Re: New block I've seen 3D printed sand cores, I say go for it, would you cast in aluminum?, its getting harder and harder to find decent rebuildable blocks.
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Re: New block Just a couple of things to shoot for.
Perhaps concentrating on the bore size limitations of the blocks as they are. Allow extra material that would permit boring to an oversize that is more desirable to some without compromising reliability. And give attention to better intake and exhaust flow characteristics. |
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An example of machine time would be my Model A first OP which is most of the block, takes 5 hours running at 25% rapid travel and 40% feed rates. That is on my Toyoda FH55. I can cut a Cleveland or FE block in less than 20 hours on slow feed rates. I use slow feed rates because I am usually doing other things at the same time so I don't have to be hovering over all machining that is going on. A casting this simple would probably be around $900. My investment will be negligible, so it allows me to make a return with little in it. I am also in the process of buying more foundry equipment than I already have to expand into pouring my own blocks. Even if I didn't, I have quality foundry people to count on. Tod |
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