Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

My engine has the one piece straight valve guides. A couple of the intakes are leaking oil up to the intake valves. Can these be removed by pressing/driving them down without removing the cam and lifters? I already have the valves and springs...etc removed. I figure I should fix this while waiting for .100 over rings for Ross pistons.
Thanks for your time and assistance.
Dick

Re: Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

You do remove the guide by driving down. I have not tried to remove with lifters in. In my minds eye it seems they would not clear top of lifters. You could check foR room with a new guide.


John

Re: Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

As I recall installing them, the guides go in after the lifters are in and they are held in place only by the valve spring. If they go in with the lifters in, they should come out with them in. That said, the warranty ran out years ago on my memory.

Re: Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

Gee,reckon installing them is a snap with the cam and lifters out..you say your waiting on rings?pull the cam while your at it,make the job easy

Re: Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

You should be able to knock them down with a driver. If they hit a lifter either turn the motor over so they clear or just cut them off and drive the rest out.
You will have to recut the seats after you put the new quides in.

Re: Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

Go a different direction with it. Use a 23/64 drill bit to enlarge the hole and then thread the inside of the guide with a 7/16-14 tap. Screw a piece of threaded rod into the guide and set-up a bridge across the seat area. Use a well-lubed nut and flat washer to pull the threaded rod upwards. You will need to build the bridge high enough, -or use a piece of 2" pipe to raise the pulling nut high enough for guide clearance as it comes out.

Re: Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

Another option is bronze liners put in the guides
unless the leak you talk about is leaking between the guide and the block

Re: Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

These are the straight sided modern guides. They are pounded in from the top and held by friction.

Re: Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

That's a great idea.

Re: Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

As the engine is still in the car, I don't want to pull the cam & lifters out. So, I think Brent's advice will be the best way to go. Thanks to all for your inputs.

Re: Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

Very highly recommended here, we do them for members up here almost weekly?

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. Also recommend using "Viton" stem seals on the (8) intake guides, totally eliminates excessive oil getting sucked into the chambers?

Re: Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

Engine work done on an engine stand results in a higher quality repair performed by a comfortable mechanic.The good feeling from time and labor saved by not pulling the engine fades when working bent over in cramped quarters.Good luck.

Re: Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

Most Model A's only have 4 intake guides, unless you're talking about the split guides, then you have 8 (1/2 guides).

Re: Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

The Bronze liners should have been done first..!
If you remove the guides,..you will need to do another valve job!
djm

Re: Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

He's V8ing in a model A world..

Re: Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

V8 "A"!! or is that an "AV8"?

never seen guide seals on side valve motor, but something new every day.

Re: Modern one piece valve guide removal
 

I removed the guides as Brent suggested. They came out with no problems. Before I installed the new guides, I machined the reduced diameter from the the end back until I was close to where the old guide was in the block. That made it a lot easier to get started straight. I then machined the tip of the guide to accept a seal. I got a straight punch (1/2" diameter) for my air chisel and machined the tip so the first 1/2" was the same diameter as the valve stem and slowly pressed them in. To get the seals on, I made a driver like the bigger one they came with and pressed them on using my valve spring compressor. Hardest part was getting the bigger valve springs back in as they hit the lifters. Slid the bottom of the spring up on a stiff scraper resting on the lifter, compressed the spring and then slid the keeper under it. From this point it was easy.
I kept the area clean by stuffing rags inside the chamber before drilling and tapping, removed the rags and checked around the chamber with a strong magnet to get the last few chips.
After I adjust the valves the pistons will go back in ....etc. and then on the road again.

Thanks for all your help and suggestions.