Engine Stand Bolts
 

What size, length and grade bolts would I need to hang my 1953 Flathead from an engine stand?

What size, length and grade bolts would I need to hang my 1937 Ford engine, using a special holder bolted to the exhaust manifold holes?


What size, length and grade bolts would I need to lift my 1953 and 1937 Flathead engines using a special holder bolted to the intake deck?


Thanks.

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

Okay, what happened? There was a response to this post and now it is gone--WTF?


Here is what I am using for lift.


http://www.stumpysfabworks.com/lift-plates-misc.html

http://www.stumpysfabworks.com/store..._Products.html

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

51 Merc CT

What happened to your response to my thread? I was not able write down what you posted. Why did you delete the response?

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

Wow, what is the big deal? I need some help.

I would like to purchase this stuff before I need them. I don't want things falling.

Where can I look this up on my own? I want to buy the right thing the first time.

I thought Ford Barn was here to help people, not give a hard time for asking a question.

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

For later (49 up) The bolts are 7/16 coarse if I remember correctly.. As far as length goes, it depends on how thick the attaching arms of the stand are. Measure them and add one inch. You can shim them with washers.

For the earlier engines. there were two different sizes Coarse thread. Do what we usually do - take some bolts and fit them to the holes. Length wise, do what I mentioned above.

Grade 5 or better

This is not rocket science. With 2,200 or more posts,you must have some experience??

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

Thanks. I appreciate your help.

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

Yes, some experience. I brought my car, which had been stored for over 50 years, back to life. I restored the fuel system and fuel tank; installed new intake, carb, fuel pump. I removed and reninstalled my trans, rear end, etc. Re installed my new coil and dist and voltage reg. I rewired the whole car; I installed new glass in my windshield frame. I did everything myself. Learned a lot about how to work on these cars by purchasing all the books and manuals I could and reading FordBarn.

The point is that I just needed to know what kinds of hardware I needed before I remove my engine. Would like to have that stuff ahead of time--not guessing and running to the store while my engine is hanging in the air. My cars and engines are not here on premises, so I thought that somebody on here could let me know what I needed since I can't just pop in on my stuff.

I really appreciate your help paul2748.



.

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

Think part of the problem is there are a lot of variables on this question. No one has any idea what type of engine stand you have and they are all going to be different. Same with the side mount you are going to be using. The length is the issue. I keep a rack of bolts of almost every size and length I would ever use so they are always there. If you don't keep any supplies, a suggestion would be to measure your stand and see what you need for length, add what you want to go into the block. Then I would buy several extra and several a little longer and shorter. Then a lot of washers. Now you should be covered. Same process for the side mount. There is not a one size fits all answer.

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

Must have pushed the wrong button.
If you purchased the lifts you posted then the bolts required come with them.
If you don't have bolts then only you can measure the thickness of the lifting plate and depth of the
3/8"-16 holes minus appox. 1/4". This you can do at the time you remove the intake manifold.
All the rest of the bolts, including the 7/16"-14 forward exh. manifold bolts are done the same way.(after the engine is removed)
7/16"-14 threaded rod is used for the 8BA engine stand (you determine length)
Grade 5 bolts are sufficient, ( grade 8 if you think you need suspenders too)

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

Looks like the lift plate and the side engine mount both come with the bolts, so all you need to get are the engine stand bolts. Getting easier all the time!:D

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

Whats wrong with the original hardware and a couple of extra washers to compensate for the difference in thickness between what was there from start and what youre bolting on...keep it simple ;)

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

Thanks all who helped.

I never removed my engine before, so I need all the advice I can get.

Yes JSeery, looks like those pieces come with hardware. I am ordering the lift plate and mount. thanks.

Hopefully all will go well.

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

ANY commercial bolt is MORE than sufficient to hold an engine on an engine stand as long as you have proper thread engagement. The general rule of thumb to use is the diameter the bolt (Or More) so for a 1/2" diameter bolt a min. of 1/2 in the block. A grade 2 bolt has a tensile of 65,000. A grade 5 120,000 and a grade 8 150,000. SO any or all are more than sufficient to hold!!!

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

Standard grade bolts are good. I have seen several engine that "fell" off
the engine stands that people brought in for me to weld back together.
The problem was they used bolts with not enough thread length and
jammed the shoulder of the bolt into the female threaded area of the
bell housing with and air wrench. When it starts to fall of the stand it
tears the bell housing apart. G.M.

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

The 7/16 bolts for the ex manifold attachment--you only need 4 of those as that size is for the front only, the other 8 are 3/8, all NC.

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

Here is an example of what has already been advised. This home made engine stand held an 8BA from the bell housing.. The bolts used are 1 inch longer than the hollow sleeve they fit through. The hollow sleeve is 3 in. long. Any adjustment can be taken up with washers. Bolts are 7/16-14 x 4 in. long. For stability use an engine stand with 4 points of contact with the ground. Also, the larger the castor, the easier it rolls.
DO NOT USE A 3 LEGGED STAND.

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

I have always used threaded rod for this application, no bottoming out, no spacers/washers, no worries.

Re: Engine Stand Bolts
 

I believe I used old head bolts when I placed mine on a stand.