Water Pump Woes
 

I intend to remove both water pumps. I have removed radiator and fan assembly, as well as mounting bolts from both water pumps - except for the one mounting bolt inside the water pump. I have been spraying "P.B. Blaster" and Koil up inside the chamber where the bolts remain. I have no welder, nor access to one. I suppose my options are - 1. they come out with a socket wrench or -2. they twist off and I would expect to then have to pull motor and transport to a machine shop.
What am I missing that would help - before I use socket?
Also, If, by some miracle, the bolts come out - what is a good way to raise motor, so I can install new pumps and motor mounts. Can I use floor jack on bottom of oil pan without doing damage? That would work best for me - if possible.

Help is appreciated

Randy

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

Using a jack on the bottom of the pan is not uncommon. Be sure to use a piece of 2x4 or 2x6 board between the jack and the pan....

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

I have removed at least twenty of these pumps and never broken that bolt. I just use 6 point socket and extension. Today I was gonna pull two pumps from a car engine to switch to truck pumps and after reading last week's post where he snapped one off, I got sort of chicken. I heated them real good with mapp gas (you should get this setup), then soaked them. Then I decided to test run the engine with the old pumps. I will do two more heat/cool cycles before attempting removal. Another thing I'd do is beat on the heads of the bolts with a hammer and a brass drift. For the guy last week and you it is way more stressful with it still in the car. Heat is your friend here, but have a fire extinguisher at hand since you have sprayed oil in there, and best of luck.

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

Better than P.B. Blaster or any other commercially made penetrating oil is a 50-50 mix of acetone and transmission fluid: http://www.antiquemodeler.org/sam_ne...am_2011_07.pdf

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

I used a damaged bolt removal socket, with lots of heat, to get mine out.

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

use an impact wrench...on low, it shakes em loose

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

Think positively..... Like the Steelers....or the Seahawks....

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

What cas3 said. And I just did this myself. I used a 2x4 under the pan for my floor jack and then a small jack stand under the crank pulley to hold it.

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

Attachment 253760Here's a picture of the "2*4" lifting block I made to go around the front of the pan and lift on the block pan surfaces. I was afraid of denting the pan in the processing of sending my '39 pumps off to Skip.

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

Once you do get those pesky internal bolts out, I would strongly recommend using a stainless steel bolt, of a good grade, that will withstand the torque required for installing and maybe later removing those bolts again.

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

I was lucky I guess because mine came out with no problem. X2 on what JM said. Stainless bolts and anti seize going back together.

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

Stainless isnt always good depending on what else becomes the offer pole.
I use steel and a good threadsealer to keep coolant out of it.
Dont use a bolt that is to long and sticks out.

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

There is also another technique whereby you can drill the head off the bolt. This would enable removal of the pump, and leave enough of the bolt so that one could get penetrant to the threads in the block, heat, hit the bolt end to break corrosion, use vise grips to remove.

While I have not seen it, I have been told that when stainless steel is underwater it will corrode. I am doing a research project on this, since I have stainless bolts it the
Model A-V8.

Karl

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

Around salt water the only bolt to use is stainless.

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

Combining materials in a liquid gives you movement of electrons and something gets eaten up if your unlucky.
Your stainless bolt will survive but the block might not...
Best is if all is the same and proper coolant with rustinhibitor.
It might work out just fine with the stainless to.
But if the bolt that kept it in place for many years did the work why change it just seal up the threads.

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

I've removed pumps from two flatheads. One was no problem at all. On the other car one bolt broke but it wasn't the one inside the pump. It was broke off about a half inch out of the block. A good small pipe wrench removed it; got lucky I guess.

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

I am the one who asked about this bolt a week or so ago as I broke one off. I had a friend with a welder come over and we tried welding the washer and nut as was suggested here. We were not successful as it continued to twist off so next I suppose we will drill and helicoil if necessary. The remaining part of the bolt is now broken off even with the gasket surface.

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

A question. How necessary is this bolt? Will it seal with the other bolts being torqued with a double gasket?

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

Dont think ford put anything not needed on there...if it had worked without it they saved money by taking it away.
Not sure what welder you used but the trick is to get enough heat in there and its harder with small bolt sizes.
Drill it out and get it done right so you dont have to do it all over.

Re: Water Pump Woes
 

Might consider an insert vs helicoil.