Brakes
 

I'm somewhat reluctant to start this post, as i've been slapped down here before for not using the proper grammar. But i'm desperate about this brake situation. Take into consideration that i'm 83 (and on the decline) with mediocre education.


But i still do my own thing, relying on my own ability to get under cars and fix whatever i can my own way.


Enough ranting, my problem is i cannot get a "Brake Pedal".


I have gone to the search section, but there is so much different do's and don't that i'm confused, and tried and did some of the advise.


Here's a some explanation, i did the brake system many years ago and the car "sat" for that many years, while trying to adjust the brakes recently i curiously peeled back the rubber cup on the wheel cylinder and got brake fluid, so i took the wheel cylinder apart and found rust, and checking the other cylinders found they needed attention too.


Bought two new front wheel cylinders, honed and put new kit in rear cyl..(minimum rust) and did same to master cylinder (new kit).


Flushed system with denature alcohol.



Bench bleed master cylinder twice, (with Dot#5)



Bleed brakes, bleed brakes, again, again, per proper procedure.


I'm hoping someone had similar situation, with a quick fix. HA....


Hope:)

Re: Brakes
 

It is really hard to use the Dot 5 fluid. It is exteamly susceptible to retain air bubbles. You can't just pore the fluid in the MC. Everything must be done slow. I would flush it out and go to Dot 3 or 4. The stuff also is extreamly susceptible to leaking.
The early Ford 1/4" lines are also a problem. I would change to 3/16" The larger lines have reduced flow velocity when bleeding so it is harder to get the air out.

Re: Brakes
 

I would leave the 1/4 lines. Finding and installing all of the compatible fittings will make you crazy.

Charlie Stephens

Re: Brakes
 

There was a post awhile back about defective wheel cylinders being manufactured and sold. Something about the bleeder screw hole not being drilled in the correct location. Could that be the problem? Is your master cylinder in good operable condition.

I have used DOT5 in my stock 1940 Ford brake system for the past 30 years with no problems. Lines are stock 1/4 in. Wish I lived closer so I could help you. Your problem is fixable using DOT 5.

Hope someone here can help you. Maybe there's another Ford barner near you.

Re: Brakes
 

Is there a reason you went to DOT 5? It is more difficult to deal with. Another possibility is some new off-shore wheel cylinders have a problem with the holes being drilled incorrectly.

Re: Brakes
 

Have you adjusted the brakes, having a slight drag. I didn’t see in your post that you did.
Mark

Re: Brakes
 

Did you change the flex lines? I used a vacuum bleeder. Took some time to bleed them. Had to be done several times. The brake lines I flushed with acetone 1st than alcohol.

Re: Brakes
 

Half of my brake lines system is stainless, so i'm keeping the 1/4 lines.


Went to Dot#5 because of information i gathered, was that Dot#5 will not store moisture. But then again i got to thinking, at my age who gives a.......BUT my oldest son will get the car after i'm pushing daisies so no doubt it will be sitting some, i don't want him to have problems with moisture
in the brake system. (all he knows is how to start a car,)


I have tried quick bleeders, and also a brake bleeder system, didn't seem to work.
I'm definitely doing something wrong.


I also had the car on the stands pointing somewhat nose down angle, so now its level.


My next step, is i'm going to try again but this time with someone in the seat pushing on the pedal.


I've done many brake bleeding, over the years by myself when my kids became of age and had to ave a car, and i sure as heck could not buy them a new car.


What's got me frustrated, is i've had this car over 50 years, and when time permitted worked on it to rebuild just about everything including blasting to bare metal, and painting it Dark Cherry Pearl, front end, rear end transmission,dash, 12volts wiring done just about one wire at a time,BUT had the engine done by "WALT DUPONT" in Maine and runs like a charm.


And i'm at the point of putting it on the road to enjoy driving it, but i'm stuck with this brake problem, i get so upset sometimes about this kind of situation i just leave it alone for a while.



I'm going to try again, but at 83 i work VERY SLOW.


Hope:D


By the wayTHANKS all of you for the reply.

Re: Brakes
 

To flatheadford.


Yes

Re: Brakes
 

Hope don't worry about the edyoumacachon join the club .sorry to here you got slapped down ,
Just something to try Get a rag and stuff it in the top of the master cylinder and use a air gun on it to blow the fluid through with a single bleeder open at a time just short bursts of air ,it sounds like trapped air ,if that doesn't work ,it could be swollen hoses,or the MC not assembled correctly ,

Re: Brakes
 

To Bill S


Brake lines are new.

Re: Brakes
 

To FlatheadTed


Your reply made me laugh, because i do the same thing when i drain the water in the pool, only i don't use a rag, but a big cork with a hole in the middle

Re: Brakes
 

Hope please make sure your master cylinder pushrod is adjusted correctly & that the piston is returning all the way to rest position.
We will brakes up & running.
Cheers
Tony

Re: Brakes
 

Just might add: This means there must be some free play in the pedal; it should move 1/16"-1/8" before the master cylinder piston starts to move. Otherwise it will never pump up.

Re: Brakes
 

Yes Thank You, i'm aware of the free play, i will make sure i remember to do that when i get "ROUND-TO-IT."


Right now i'm laying back for a bit, building up enough courage to do that again. Besides to weather is a killer around here for this KID.

Re: Brakes
 

Always worth the effort I guess if you are really set on the DOT 5. If it was me (and it is on my vehicles :) ) I would go back to DOT 3/4 and change it out every couple of years.

Re: Brakes
 

sounds like youve done it all correct only thing is did you get the vehicle as high as practicable and level then let the axles hang [biggest trouble with under floor masters is there is no fall between the master and the wheels and this makes them a rite cow to bleed. Last resort try reverse bleeding [from the wheels back to the master ] but you need a pressure bleeder to do this P.S. did you use a plastic tube into a jar of brake fluid at the wheels this actually works like a one way valve and stops you sucking any air back into the wheel keep in touch want to see how you get on

Re: Brakes
 

All the way from Australia, cant believe this modern way of living.


No i have not done the tube in the jar thing, but will do on my next try.

Re: Brakes
 

Be weary some of the Drake shoes are too thick causing the cup to push in too far into the wheel cylinder. It causes a very very slight leak that takes a while to appear and causes a weak pedal. You may not have the above mentioned shoes but thought I’d mention it on here

Re: Brakes
 

JSeery


The one reason i'm sticking with Dot#5 for now, is i "dread" having to flush the whole system again and start with Dot#3. But if i have too much trouble i will do. It will take "time" for me to decide.
This OLD horse is beat. Ha.Ha.