Chatter Rod Removal Can someone discuss the process of removing the chatter rod frame attachment? Has any one pulled the block forward enough to clear the rod going through the block attachment hole?
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal Moving the engine forward is not a viable solution in my opinion. You still have to get that special bolt out. You might as well start there. I made the tool with the square fitment. I put two flats on the sides of the tool's shaft. Good downward pressure, combined with a crescent wrench for torque, made it an easy job.
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal Why do you want to remove them? Their purpose is to prevent the engine from moving forward when power is applied to the rear end. Ford called them "engine stay rods" for a reason.
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I think he is trying to remove the engine from the frame. And he wants to know if he can pull the engine without removing the engine stay rods. I say NO. Don't try and remove the engine by sliding them over these rods. Remove the engine stay rods (chatter rods) before pulling the engine. That means you have to pull the floor boards to access the tops of the anti chatter rod bolts. As stated above, the enthusiast can make his own square-head tool to remove the rods. A good quality bolt can be ground down to make the correct size square head tool for removal. |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal DD
That "pin" you refer to is a short carriage bolt with a nut up inside the frame cross member. Bruce |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal Roy Nacewicz is at FORDBOLTS.COM
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal See the first photo in the first post of the link provided. That is what I have found on my Fords. The "cup" shaped end is threaded and the short carriage bolt (with square hole in top) threads into that. There is no cage nut attached to the frame, the chatter rod end is threaded to take the bolt. You may want to try a "Chatter Rod" search on this forum. There are dozens of previous threads concerning this matter.
http://fordbarn.com/forum/showthread...t=Chatter+Rods |
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For others, here we go again: If you don't remove the rods, you will bend them while removing the engine. That's something you want to avoid. The special bolts that fasten the rods to the frame require a 5/16" square head drive to remove. You can make one out of a hex key (aka: allen wrench). You may want to apply a little heat to the rod at the area of the threads. It may help you "picture" what you are attempting to remove: It is a counter-sunk flat head bolt. The frame is counter-sunk to accept the bolt head. The female threads are integral of the rod(s). |
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Mine looks like the rod had been flattened and a pin or stud with no head had been inserted through the flattened part and into the frame rail, but not through. At the top, the pin is flush with the flattened part of the rod. Is access gained from top or bottom? |
Re: Chatter Rod Removal If the square hole in the counter sunk bolt gets booged up. Weld a nut to the top of it . After the weld cools off they usually unscrew. Then replace the bolt. Also before you put it back together chase all the threads and use some neversieze so the next guy to take it apart has a easier job
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Access to the top of the bolt is from the TOP. |
Re: Chatter Rod Removal 1 Attachment(s)
This is for a 41 with 59 engine.
Bruce |
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Here's a photo of the 40... |
Re: Chatter Rod Removal 3 Attachment(s)
Here is a Photo of a properly installed "Anti Chatter Rod" from below.
The second photo is a 1937 Ford chatter rod, special flathead square hole bolt, washer and custom made tool. Third photo shows the two chatter rod holes on top of the frame. If you have the trans cover off, then they are accessible. The left chatter rod hole can be seen just left of the clutch spring. The right chatter rod hole can be seen just above the dog ear of the rear trans mount (it is counter sunk and appears as a dish-shaped hole). You can access the chatter rod bolts from the top. If you have something different, then you should post photos so the members can help you. |
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Re: Chatter Rod Removal If you didn't remove the rods, you will have the same issues getting the engine back in. I would cut a hole above the bolts to remove the stay rods. You can deal with the holes when you're done.
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