European Fordor project
 

Hello all,

First a short introduction: I am a new member of this forum - from the North European side of the pond :)
I am currently renovating a 1931 Fordor that has been in my family since 1972, used previously as an everyday drive in all weather conditions. The past 20 years or so it has been stowed away awaiting major renovation - and now the time has finally come.
The 'metallic part' of the renovation is well underway, and the 'wooden part' is gaining momentum as well. Hwenever possible I am manufacturing the wooden parts together with a friend, using the old ones as guides. Not everything will be renewed - just the parts that are in need of replacement.

The condition of the car was not too good at disassembly, and I seek a few pieces of advice for the renovation and rebuild process - and hope to find it here :)

* How do I best avoid squeaking sounds after renovation?
- Should anything be added between metallic and wooden pieces upon reassembly? (There was what looked like a cloth-tape i some places - but it is hard to tell what it really is)

* How do I soundproof the cabin while I am at it?
- Any soundproofing that goes between the wooden pieces in the roof and back constructions?
- In the doors?
- In or under the floor?

* Any recommendation on what to use as insulation between the metal chassis frame and the wooden frame of the housing?

And finally a puzzling question: I was under the impression that Ford used only ash for the wooden parts. Upon opening the car up I found lots of pieces made from oak - but all appearing to be original. Is oak known to have been used as well?

Thanks a lot for a great and knowledgeable forum - and thoughts or recommendations are welcome.


All the best from a fellow Fordor Ford'er :)
Dan

Re: European Fordor project
 

Welcome! I am a fellow Fordor owner and I feel your pain about all that wood.


The cloth tape you are talking about really is pretty much cloth tape and it was what Ford used for anti-squeak. I also found oak in my Murray bodied 1930. Is yours Briggs or Murray? Not sure but maybe they used different wood? I think the prints specify 3 different varieties.


I haven't done any insulating to mine yet but I'd like to. I'll have to follow along and see what people recommend.

Re: European Fordor project
 

A couple of pictures attached, more or less in chronological order:

Ford in storage, about to be taken out of hibernation :)

Ford taken out and washed.

Metalworks underway.

A new handmade header (the old looked like the vikingships found at the bottom of the sea :p)

A picture of the bottom frame - I suspect it needs a full replacement...

Re: European Fordor project
 

Hi Ryan,

Thanks!

Its a Briggs - see pictures above.

I was just curious as my wood expert highly recommends against oak in combination with metal, but does add that perhaps the north American oak is different :)

Re: European Fordor project
 

Okay so you've got a Briggs. Looks like it's in good hands. I've got a soft spot for Fordors. Then again, most Fordors also have soft spots... I'll show myself out.


Seriously though, the new header looks great and the sills don't look terrible in the picture. Should be more than enough for a pattern.


Something recently broke in my drivers side rear door... guess I've got another winter project.

Re: European Fordor project
 

Wood has moisture and acids in its grai and molecular structures, so it should not be put in contact with bare metal. Either paint the metal or seal the wood. I would do both and use an epoxy paint on the metal.

Re: European Fordor project
 

Hi Dan,

Great looking car you have there. Please post lots of pics as I will be doing this same exact thing in a few years:eek::eek::eek:. As far as wood goes, I have heard that ASH, and OAK were used as that is what Henry had in his forests.

For sound proofing there are several sound deadeners out there that you can use. Dad used house insulation (not recommended) but that is all he had. Now there is 'Dynamat'-$$$$ or I have heard of other manufacturers making stuff that works just as well but for less money. I would put it everywhere you can Floor, doors, roof, wrap it around the back as well. It will cut down on road noise, vibrations and it will seal the car from heat/cold. Plus it will ride much nicer.

One last piece of advise about the body parts. Do not lose/dent/destroy etc. the lower valance panel. The part that goes under the spare tire in between the rear fenders. They are scarce as hens teeth over here and probably unobtanium over there.

Mike

Re: European Fordor project
 

Dan,


Is your Fordor one that was assembled in Denmark? Since you have the body off of the frame I am interested in the size of the serial numbers that are stamped on the frame. I have a Danish assembled car and the serial numbers on the frame are a different size than the US stamped numbers.


Here is a picture of the anti-squeak material in my car.



http://www.modelahouse.com/images/wo...nti-squeak.jpg





Bob Johnson

Re: European Fordor project
 

nothing wrong with oak or ash. both hard woods and very durable.

Re: European Fordor project
 

Your Fordor already looks better than mine AFTER I got it back on the road...

Re: European Fordor project
 

Hi Bob,

Thanks for the advice, and I do plan to paint all metallic surfaces in any case. Any specifics as to how to seal the wood would be appreciated.

\Dan

Re: European Fordor project
 

Hi Mike,

Thanks, and good advice. I'll take good care of the valence panel :)

I'll have to look into the options over here - probably dont have the same brands here as over there, we'll see.

\Dan

Re: European Fordor project
 

Hi Bob,

What a coincidence :) I am not sure if mine was assembled here or not. Will try to establish the history of the car, just havent gotten around to it yet...

Do you know exactly where to the serial is supposed to be located? I will take a look at it then.

\Dan

Re: European Fordor project
 

Hi Ronn,

Indeed both are hard and mechanically stable woods. But oak (at least the european one) has a lot of acid in it. If you make for instance fence posts from it you need to use the best quality stainless steel screws - or they will be gone in a few years time...

\Dan

Re: European Fordor project
 

Dan,

What about using wood that has been kiln dried for several months to get rid of the acids? either way you will end up painting/sealing the wood and metal.

Mike

Re: European Fordor project
 

Dan,
Here is a picture which shows where the number is located.



http://web.archive.org/web/200909020...s/engineno.jpg


Bob Johnson

Re: European Fordor project
 

Hi Mike,

I asked my wood expert about this - and he doubted it would make any real difference. He recommends to just use ash and - as you and more people here have stated - to seal the metallic and wooden parts in the places where they meet.

Re: European Fordor project
 

Hi again guys,

Worked on the wood part of the car top over the weekend, and progress was made :)
We were able to split the original pieces where they used to be glued, and copy those individual pieces before finally assembling them again. Its not quite done yet, but progressing nonetheless :D
So the rather poor state of the top turned out to be an advantage :p

One thing did come up though - the use of stainless screws and bolts. What is the best practice in this regard - to use it or not? Or does it not matter?

All the best,
Dan

Re: European Fordor project
 

Using Ash is much better! We have a lot of both Oak and Ash around here and for car parts I would only use Ash. Morgan uses Ash only in its cars. Ash is a funny wood. You can cut it down in the morning and burn it at night. This means it handles moisture differently. Oak will swell if wet. Not so good in a steel body. Furthermore, Oak in a accident will splinter into hundreds of little arrows. Also, Ash is lighter. In the old days, people were more aware about the qualities of different woods. Things were seldom made of just "Wood". They were almost always made of Oak or ash, Hickory or Chestnut. These differences were important. In the war of 1812, "Old Ironsides" was made from a species of Oak known as "Live Oak" that grows in the southern part of the US. There is nothing better for resisting cannonballs. Google Live Oak and old Ironsides. Use Ash for your car.
Terry

Re: European Fordor project
 

Ditto above sentiments. I just asked my son who does woodworking about acid in oak. He says oak contains a lot of tannic acid, which oxidizes metal. Said he turned some red oak and it flash rusted his cast iron wood lath immediately. Ash would be a much better choice.