Oil Pan fit?
 

I had trouble getting my oil pan in to a newly restored car. It was an extremely tight fit. I had to take off my pulley just to get the front two bolts in. It was so tight against the front crossmember I couldn't get my socket on the bolt. Picture is of the oil pan and how the socket only goes so far.

My pan is on now...but I just wanted to know if something else is wrong in my restoration or is this normal?!

Thanks

Re: Oil Pan fit?
 

Are you using a 3/8" drive or a 1/2" drive? 3/8" should fit up there OK.

Re: Oil Pan fit?
 

George,
Our's was easy, and we're not "magic"! Could your engine maybe too low in the front????? Or maybe loosen the 4 big rear motor mount bolts and see if the engine can be scooted back a little. Bill W.

Re: Oil Pan fit?
 

One of my Model A's has the same problem. Many years ago the car was in an accident requiring the front crossmember to be replaced. The replacement crossmember is a little "fat" in the access area for the front oil pan bolts. I cut screwdriver slots in the bolts to eliminate access problems. Has caused no trouble or leaks.

Re: Oil Pan fit?
 

I concur with Ray's answer. My good quality 1/2 inch sockets will not work for these bolts. However for these two I use a cheap 3/8 inch drive "Huskey" socket set and they are thin enough wall thickness to get in and grab the bolts.

Re: Oil Pan fit?
 

My 3/8 inch drive will not come close to the bolt. I think MAG is on to something. My front cross member has been replaced. It must be a thicker cross member.

Re: Oil Pan fit?
 

George...I am thrilled you are getting more done on your A. Are you going to join me with mine next summer when mine is done??? I HOPE SO

Re: Oil Pan fit?
 

Using a long piece of all thread that is large enough diameter that will fit through the starter crank hole and into the recess in the starter ratchet. Cut it long enough to weld a nut on the end where it sticks out so you can put a wrench on it. Insert the all thread with nut into the hole, before sliding into the ratchet place a couple of washers and a nut on. Turn the nut and washers making contact with the engine side of the crank guide. Holding the outside nut with one wrench turn the inside nut. This will push the motor back so you can use your sockets to get to the bolts. You may need to loosen the rear bolts on the motor mount.

Re: Oil Pan fit?
 

Re: Oil Pan fit?
 

Curt, I wish I was running down the road with you this summer. I am between semesters right now and working on my A. School starts back up soon and the Model A will have to be mothballed again.

Re: Oil Pan fit?
 

The body is not on the car. So it sounds like hood/body fit will determine if I need to move the motor backwards. Great ideas guys! I love this website.

Re: Oil Pan fit?
 

Float A motor rear mounts will cause this problem. The whole drive train will have a tendency to float. Some love it.

Re: Oil Pan fit?
 

Purdy, I have the Float A Motor...makes sense now that you point it out.

Re: Oil Pan fit?
 

my biggest trouble is getting the pan plug to seal . leaks thru the threads i believe

Re: Oil Pan fit?
 

1/4" drive

Paul in CT

Re: Oil Pan fit?
 

Are you sure that the leak is from the plug ? Many times a bad fit at the rear pan seal will cause oil to run down the oil pan and collect around the drain plug . If oil is leaking around the threads of the plug, I would put some high tack permatex sealer on the threads of the plug, before installation.

Re: Oil Pan fit?
 

The copper ring, not the threads, do the sealing. A new copper gasket should fix the problem.