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Yotehunter66 09-10-2018 06:35 PM

56 T-bird rebuild
 

I recently acuired my dad's T-bird and I'm just starting to undo the carnage. I have rebuilt the teapot on it and changed the plugs and wiing. I have to replace the vacuum lines to the distributor. There was a solid piece of brake line running to the distributor from the intake vacuum port. That makes it almost impossible to move the distributor. Anyone using flexible tubing instead?https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y8P...w?usp=drivesdk

Yotehunter66 09-10-2018 06:41 PM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y8P...w?usp=drivesdk

dmsfrr 09-10-2018 07:07 PM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

3 Attachment(s)
Steel line is original. There should be two of them, with special fittings on the ends.
When the distributor is installed in the correct position it doesn't need to move much to set the timing.
The steel lines are reproduced, part # 12370-BL

A sturdy fuel rated hose could be used if you have correct fittings for attaching it at the ends.

Yotehunter66 09-10-2018 07:17 PM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

The one to the carb side has already been replaced with a flexible one. The manifold vacuum line has to be in place to adjust the timing, correct?

paul2748 09-10-2018 07:24 PM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

The second line runs from the advance unit to a fitting in the back of the carb, not the manifold. Usually when adjusting the distributor, the lines are disconnected and plugged. When the timing is set, the lines are bent to reconnect them.

dmsfrr 09-10-2018 07:25 PM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yotehunter66 (Post 1673500)
. . . The manifold vacuum line has to be in place to adjust the timing, correct?

I haven't got a '56 Shop Manual.
The '55 Shop Manual I have with instructions for a similar distributor, but with one vacuum line, says to disconnect and plug the line.

If the dual vacuum canister isn't fully functional the timing won't advance properly, if at all, and the engine can be damaged.
see this link...
https://www.ctci.org/gilsgarage/Crac...stManifold.php

.

scicala 09-10-2018 08:01 PM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

When you set the timing the vacuum lines (both) need to be disconnected at the distributor and then plug the ends. If you have to turn the distributor a little bit to set the timing, then you have to bend the line slightly to reinstall them.


Sal

Yotehunter66 09-13-2018 02:12 PM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

Thanks.

Yotehunter66 09-16-2018 10:02 AM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c..._175808799.jpg

Anyone know what the port is at the bottom of the intake just to the left of the mounting bolt?

24ruxstel1339 09-16-2018 10:19 AM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

Most choke heaters have 2 tubes, one is manifold heat and the other is sort of a vent.
I believe that is the vent tube.
When it's running, see if you have vacuum there.
I don't think the choke vent has vacuum.

Oldmics 09-16-2018 11:28 AM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

That is the original location for the heat riser tube that goes to the choke.


The existing line you have for the choke which goes over the valve cover and to an orifice on the exhaust manifold is not the original path.


It will work properly in the modified fashion that way but it tells me that you possibly have a non original right side exhaust manifold or one that has been modified.


There would have been a brass 90* elbow connected to the shown intake manifold orifice and then a short tube with a coupling at the carb side run to the carb choke.


Oldmics

Yotehunter66 09-16-2018 11:38 AM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

Any harm in it being open?

KULTULZ 09-16-2018 11:50 AM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yotehunter66 (Post 1675548)

Anyone know what the port is at the bottom of the intake just to the left of the mounting bolt?

That is the OEM choke heating tube used on 56/57 Y-Blocks. It must have snapped off and instead of repairing it chose instead to put an aftermarket choke stove kit on the car drawing heat directly from an exhaust manifold instead of the heat riser passage running under the intake manifold carb pad.

Oldmics 09-16-2018 12:16 PM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yotehunter66 (Post 1675580)
Any harm in it being open?


I don't really see any harm with it open.


The heat that will escape from the opening could lead to a slightly higher air temperature underhood and the paint will always be burnt off around the orifice.


Could block it off with a metal plug if your concerned.


Oldmics

dmsfrr 09-16-2018 12:27 PM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

3 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Yotehunter66 (Post 1675580)
Any harm in it being open?

It's the end of a small choke heat tube inside the exhaust crossover passage. The other end is on the Drivers side of the manifold.
If it's open it's not a problem unless the tube is rusted thru inside the exh crossover. Exhaust will leak out both ends and it would be better if they are plugged.

scicala 09-16-2018 12:43 PM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

Yotehunter66,


Hope you did a good job on the Teapot carb you rebuilt. Looks pretty dirty, unless you rebuilt it a long time ago. Might need a new secondary diaphragm too. Looks like the frayed edge of it sticking out.


Sal

Yotehunter66 09-16-2018 01:06 PM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

It's been cleaned and rebuilt. Doesn't mean it's right though. I put a kit in it about a month ago.I don't recall changing any secondary diaphragm. There is a lot to do on it. It was my dad's project put due to his age and health he hasn't been able to work on it over the last ten years or so.

Yotehunter66 09-16-2018 01:33 PM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c..._141030727.jpg

Yotehunter66 09-16-2018 01:36 PM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

Electronic ignition is in it now. Is there a set gap between the pick up and the plastic piece that goes over the distributor cam lobes?
http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/c..._141010345.jpg

Alaska Jim 09-16-2018 03:38 PM

Re: 56 T-bird rebuild
 

If I remember correctly, there should be a set gap. It should have been specified in the kit for the Electronic ign. system. do not use a regular feeler gauge when setting the gap between the pick-up coil and the reluctor. There are special brass feeler gauges for this purpose. They can be bought at most tool dealers, or parts stores.


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