I know some tricks for faux rust, oxdation and faux peeling...


pick the color you want to paint it... we'll use a minty sixties green for example...

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do your bodywork, and 2k primer.. then sand out to 600 as if you were painting a regular paintjob... (a straight car will look better with this than a banged up one, because the sanding won't give away how it was faked....)

now we're ready to go..

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Faux rust bubbles-

put some unreduced red brown primer in a squirt bottle.. tint it with some black to get a nice dark brown

figure out where your rust bubbles should be...

around the lower window, cowl, door bottoms, wherever...

squirt it on in clumpy areas, and let dry overnight..

these will show once everything is done...

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Faux oxidation, and fading

if you want a real vintage look, you'll need red brown primer.. this was the standard back in the day..

so either base the whole car in red brown primer, or a basecoat that is the same color. base until you acheive coverage of the grey primer..

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now to move onto the "unfaded" lower layer of paint.

this will be your minty green.. base away, and acheive coverage of the brown..

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now you'll need the "faded" top layer..

take the mint green. and add some white to it..

not too much.. just enough to make it look distressed by the sun

now acheive coverage with the lighter color.


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alright..

let it dry up overnight, and then it's time to wetsand..

use a soft block behind your paper, not your fingers... this will avoid finger marks that give away that it's not real.. (a drip of car wash soap in your bucket will help cut, and stop the paper from clogging, too)

stand back, and identify the areas that would receive the most sunlight (hood, tops of fenders, roof) and wear from use(door pillars, lower areas of windows, around handles)

now it's time to remove some paint in these areas, but in a manner that looks natural.

start wet sanding the tops of the panels with 400 and then 600 then 800 then 1000, but make sure not to break past the red brown primer layer.. exposing the 2k primer will absorb water, and lead to rust... plus give away that it's fake..

once you're past 600 greit you can lose the block...

the higher grit you sand, the less you'll be able to see the sanding scratches...

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now removing the layers gradually makes it appear that the sun has beat this paint down, faded the top layer, the lower layer is still holding it's color some, and the red brown primer is finally breaking thru...

if you want a really crusty ride, just use red brown primer instead of 2k, then sand all the way to bare metal..

it will rust, and be crappy (I 'm a bodyman and painter, so I don't think this is cool at all) but if you like it, then go ahead.

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sanding thru the worn areas around the handles and windows adds a great history to the vehicle.

and breaking thru the quirted on faux rust bubbles, gives a realistic problem area, without the troubles of actual rust, leaking, and structural issues

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Option 2

the most basic way to do this faux patina is the reverse of what I just described..

paint your car flat black, mist on some red in a few spots, then wet sand that down..

it will appear that the black is wearing away, and revealing a red underneath, when the opposite is true...

Last edited by biGshiz79; 09-20-2009 at 09:24 AM.