Transmission Adjustment
 

I know there are several posts on band adjustments, but I haven't see anything on my particular problem.
When I first start, or try to start the car, it wants to lurch forward and drive like its in gear. After it runs for a few seconds that stops and I can then restart without issue until it sits and gets cold. I checked the low gear band adjustment and it doesn't seem like it is too tight. Is there anyplace else I should be looking?

Re: Transmission Adjustment
 

Sounds like the clutch fingers need adjusting or when you pull the hand brake handle back it is not completely disengaging the clutch fingers. Take the inspection cover off and check that the fingers are loose when the hand brake handle is pulled back.

Re: Transmission Adjustment
 

The clutch plates are bathed in oil. If the oil is cold, it will be thicker and cause the clutch plates to act as if they are 'stuck' together. After the oil warms up the plates spin free of each other. Many people jack up one of the rear wheels when the engine is cold so the car doesn't lurch forward. When the oil is warm, step on the break pedal and the wheel will stop. Then you can take the car off the jack and drive away.

Re: Transmission Adjustment
 

What weight oil is in it? Some release the hand lever and it keeps the oil squeezed out between the clutch disk.

Re: Transmission Adjustment
 

I am running 10-w30 in there right now, I will check the clutch adjustment. Is there a better weight oil to use?

Re: Transmission Adjustment
 

Due to the .002 clearances for mains and rods, I would use 30 weight. But others may use 10W-30. I think 10W-30 is too thin when cold. The straight 30 weight may make the clutch plates stick more when cold but I think may lubricate better.

Re: Transmission Adjustment
 

Re: Transmission Adjustment
 

You need to run something like 5W-30 or 0W-20 in the winter in New Jersey. 10W-30 ought to be fine in the summer time.

The link from the low pedal to the clutch arm may need to be adjusted longer to give more disengagement travel on the clutch.

Re: Transmission Adjustment
 

I would stick to 10-30 oil. It is a good all season oil. The oil grades suggested by Royce are made for modern engines with much closer tolerances and finer machining work.

Re: Transmission Adjustment
 

Ford originally sent every Model T out of the factory with "Light" grade motor oil.
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1...dykes-oil1.jpg
Before the SAE came along motor oils were graded in terms from Light to Heavy. Here's a chart from the side of a Mobil Oil can of about 1930 vintage:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1...rt-blow-up.jpg

During this period of time the industry was making the switch to SAE oil designations. Mobil Oil "A" is SAE 30, previously designated "Heavy Medium"which is two grades too thick for a Model T.

This is a can of Sinclair SAE 30 from about the same period of time:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1...sinclair-m.jpg
Here's the top of the same can of oil:
http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/1...dium-heavy.jpg

So actually, SAE 10W-30 is thicker when hot than the oil Ford recommended for the Model T. Now you know the real story.

Re: Transmission Adjustment
 

Accidentally hit enter. Here's the last sentence:

The "Light" grade of motor oil that Ford recommended for every Model T is equivalent to SAE 20 of today.

Re: Transmission Adjustment
 

Thanks again guys, being a person that is relatively new to Model t's this group and its members is a wealth of information!

Re: Transmission Adjustment
 

I believe the adjustment bolt on the parking brake cam will take care of your problem.Phil