Flathead Storage?
 

I have a flathead that hasn't been run in 30 years. What should I do to preserve it for future use? Can I just I drain the old oil and squirt something in the spark plug holes? If I put some fresh oil in it is there a way to prime it with the existing oil pump? (And then should I drain the new oil?)

Re: Flathead Storage?
 

If it still turns squirt some oll in plug holes and let it soak in while you change the oil. Turn it over by hand a few times and then with plugs out hook a 12 volt battery and crank it for 10-20 seconds.I install a mechanical oil pressure gauge where the oil sender is to verify pressure. Repeat a few times every year.

Re: Flathead Storage?
 

Michael from ThirdGen posted some information about a CRC product used to protect metal surfaces during storage.

I've used their SP-400 and it's some heavy duty stuff. Parts needed to be boiled in order to remove it.

It seems like the version Michael used was easier to remove.

Re: Flathead Storage?
 

Get some "fogging oil" to spray into the spark plug holes and down the intake. You can prime the oil system through the oil pressure sending unit port. Rig up a line from a small pump or pressure vessel (like a garden sprayer) to push some fresh oil in to the bearings.
It does make a difference how the engine has been stored for the last 30 years: Were the intake and exhaust ports taped over or left open? Was this a fresh/never run rebuild? Was oil put in through the spark plug holes back then?
Don't forget about the cam! After 30 years (plus an unknown number more years) it will be dry and won't get any lube until the engine runs long enough for oil to thrown up from the rod bearings. You might want to fill the crankcase completely full so oil coats the cam and lifters just before you start it. If you leave it full of oil, it will slowly leak all over the place!

Re: Flathead Storage?
 

I had a '51 Merc that lived under the stairs in my shop for almost 20 years. When it came time to use it, I first determined if it would turn over by hand, When it did, I changed the oil and mounted it on my test stand and ran a compression test. When that looked good, I got it ready to start. I have a mechanical gauge on the stand. The one thing I remember is that it took a looooong time to get oil pressure. I think that all of the oil had drained down and the pump had lost it's prime. I'll bet it took about 2 minutes of cranking to start to get any oil pressure. When it registered, it came right up. I started the engine and it ran great and had 25 psi at hot idle and 55 psi at speed. I've had it in the car for three years now, and everything is still perfect.

In retrospect, I should have pressurized the oil gauge port, but I was in a hurry. No harm, no foul.

Re: Flathead Storage?
 

Engines that have been stored for years should be disassembled for inspection to look for rust, hardened sludge, carbon on valve stems, stuck rings, and other problems. Many engines were removed due to problems, and to simply put them in a vehicle while hoping all is well can be costly At our shop we have found ll sorts of things in engines brought after the owner was assured by the seller that "it had been overhauled". including dead mice, nuts and block cracks or other damage, such as freezing.