condenser re-locating to coil
 

I received a PM from Moe up in Canada on details for moving the condenser up from the distributor to the coil. I tried to reply to his PM but there is no icon for attaching pictures in a pm (?) so I am posting it here in the forum for all. Make a piece of steel about 1/2 by 3 and drill a hole at the bottom and one at the top. Remove the condenser from down at the distributer. Mount the strip to the bolt that holds the coil. Then connect the condenser to the coil terminal that goes down to the distributer.

Re: condenser re-locating to coil
 

John,thanks again, Moe

Re: condenser re-locating to coil
 

I like that location. I wish I could mount the whole distributor up there!

Re: condenser re-locating to coil
 

Yea, I want to do that too! Went to remove my condenser today, and what a pain to get to it! (on a 37, on an aftermarket Mallory crab, with an electric fan in the way)

Anyone know of a downside to mounting the condenser off the remote coil like that?

Re: condenser re-locating to coil
 

Sorry. I think there's probably only an upside. 8^) Jack E/NJ

Re: condenser re-locating to coil
 

This was brought up some years ago by 42 guy who raced flatheads. Some electric guys thought that because of the distance there was some drop in mili??? Bottom line was that for drivers this was a good re-location. The first time we have what we think is sudden ignition problem we take the first and easiest try which is to replace the condenser. Many times that is the answer. On the side of the road at night this is no fun.
So my opinion is there is no downside. My 46 has been like that for 10 years and the one time it started bucking and running poorly a new condenser took care of it. Easy change.
John

Re: condenser re-locating to coil
 

A longer lead does add to the capacitance. If you look at a high-end condenser tester, it will have special short leads to be used when testing condensers for exactly this reason. Most Mallory distributors have a brass strap for connecting the condensers. Even with all of that, it probably doesn't make enough difference to be concerned about.

Given all of that, if you are making a longer condenser lead, use at least 12 gauge wire (10 is even better but sometimes a little unwieldly).

Re: condenser re-locating to coil
 

You can use a condenser from early 80's Mopar. when I started this, I was in touch Std. Blue Streak and they recommended AL111X. I have had the same condenser for 15 yrs, When I purchased them, they were still made in the USA.

Re: condenser re-locating to coil
 

That condenser can be used in a 47 Ford V8 and 6 volt car?

Re: condenser re-locating to coil
 

All ignition coils spike up to near 80+ volts on the primary side so it's likely they would work fine.

Re: condenser re-locating to coil
 

Condensers work in 6 or 12 volts systems. Th voltage to the coil
wants to be 4.0 volts. Higher burns points and lower is hard to
start. G.M.

Re: condenser re-locating to coil
 

I think it should be noted for new guys that is with engine running or cranking, points opening and closing. For those working in the garage with engine stopped, about 3 volts at the coil is normal. Later when engine is turning, points open 20% of the time, no current flow and therefore no voltage drop thru the resistor 20% of the time, averaged voltage will then jump up to 3.5 to 4 volts.

Re: condenser re-locating to coil
 

With a 30* dwell closed, I think points are open closer to 67% of the time. 8^) Jack E/NJ