Stud removal
 

Just an FYI on yet another stud removal problem, a new one for me. Bought a block, could not turn any of the studs out, in fact broke one. Followed the usual procedure and soaked with acetone/ATF for about a week, no luck. Applied 0x/acetilene heat, red hot, hit with hammer, let completely cool, no luck.
Next time, heated red hot again and applied the pipe wrench before the stud cooled too much, about a minute. Broke free and came out.
Found carbon, not rust on the stud. I surmise some prior builder put Permatex 1 or 2 on the stud and over time it just became a hard glue and the heat loosened it up. Good news is no rust and the threads are really pristine. Have never seen better threads on a old block.

In the usual situation (rust) you want to heat the stud and let it cool to get some miniscule separation between the rust and block and stud. Here you want to melt the Permatex and keep it hot and pliable.

Caution, do not try to turn the bolt while red hot, let it cool for a minute or so. I broke one off applying force before the tensile strength of the bolt returned, it was too soft until it cooled a bit and hardened. As I say, about a minute worked for me, the stud was still plenty hot, but hard again, and the Permatex loosened. The longer you keep the stud hot the better for "melting" the Permatex.

Re: Stud removal
 

Heating studs runs the risk of "breaking out" the block.

Do yourself a favor. Invest $20 in the Ares tool. Two day delivery from Amazon.

More discussion at https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showt...highlight=Ares

Impact wrench is the way to go but the ares tool will work with a ratchet wrench.

Joe K

Re: Stud removal
 

Not applicable necessarily to permatex but.....
While the stud is red, quince it with a good dose of cold water
Watch the steam from it will burn ya
Also there are stud removers that grip the shaft and don’t twist as badly. Small pipe wrench works second best just go as low as you can grip

Re: Stud removal
 

Check the bottom of the hole that stud came out of, it may be open to the water jacket. Could be why it was sealed w/permatex..

Re: Stud removal
 

I've just reassembled an engine that was in a Tudor I imported from the US but not before I fished two chunks of cast iron out of the water jacket. Someone in the past 90 years has screwed the head studs in too far and broken out the bottom of the holes. What an idiot!
I sealed the threads with a little Permatex #3 to prevent water entering them.

Re: Stud removal
 

A friend just showed me a nifty tool. It is electric and looks a little like a soldering gun
But at the end of it is a coil that goes around the stud. When you pull the trigger it
Glows red hot and heats up the stud making it easy to take out the stud.

Re: Stud removal
 

Where is this tool available from and how much cost??
Paul in CT

Re: Stud removal
 

Re: Stud removal
 

Wow! $499...would sure need to use it in a profit-making environment

Re: Stud removal
 

mechanic shop near-by that I help out at has one, it is amazing how well it works, and no open flame. The price is high but if you do this sort of work on a regular basis, worth every penny. You can get all size tips, even ones that bent to get at tough places like manifold bolts.


looked on ebay, seems there are some copies for about half the price