40 Ford Ignition Woes My son bought a 40 Ford truck with a 59A flathead. It wasn't running when he got it. I put new points in it on my Sun machine and set the dwell. It started right up and ran well. We went for a ride and all ran strong. We drove about 5 miles and all of a sudden it died. No spark condition. We called AAA and got a tow home. He changed the coil and it started right up again. He took it for another ride days later and the same thing happened. Had to get it towed home again. What do you experts think is causing this?? Help please.
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Re: 40 Ford Ignition Woes Crab or helmet?
I have had problems with the HT side of the ignition. Cap and rotor can all fail under load, and run fine again until hot and loaded again. Have any spares you can swap on? |
Re: 40 Ford Ignition Woes Check to see if the balist resistor is not bypassed as this can fry a coil .
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Re: 40 Ford Ignition Woes with Mart crab / helmet or aftermarket also 6v/12v No such thing as to much information ??
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Re: 40 Ford Ignition Woes He changed the coil? More info please. Another coil from the cardboard box in the trunk?
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Re: 40 Ford Ignition Woes There are several items that with heat can go bad but when cold are OK. The ones mentioned above plus the ignition condenser.
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Re: 40 Ford Ignition Woes I put a Pertronix unit in a crab distributor on my engine because these reproduction parts are so terrible.
But, if I were doing a stock ignition all over again, I’d buy a coil from Skip Haney and a condenser from Tubman. |
Re: 40 Ford Ignition Woes It's a crab distributor. I think the resistor has been bypassed. I will have my son check it out tonight. Will let you know what we find. Thanks!
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Re: 40 Ford Ignition Woes Quote:
Did that with my helmet distributor. VERY SATISFIED! Car runs really strong and reliable. I'd be confident using it as a daily driver. Bought 2 each so I'd have spares. Also bought NOS resistors and points on evilBay for spares. |
Re: 40 Ford Ignition Woes something worth checking is how the points fit on the pivot post, I just had one set of points lock up when it got hot so the 1 point was locked open so the distributor had no spark, was ok & tested good when it was cold but after driving for an hour or so the 1 set of points locked up, I have just drilled it out to give more clearance
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Re: 40 Ford Ignition Woes Condensor condensor condensor
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Re: 40 Ford Ignition Woes Changed the condenser, same thing happened and needed another tow.
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Re: 40 Ford Ignition Woes The first thing I check when a car just stops as check if an ignition or gas problem. Take off the air cleaner and work the throttle to see if the accelerator pump squirts out gas. If so fuel is not a problem. Then pull a wire and hold it close to ground as you try to start. You should have a hot blue spark. With a crab distributor you have an external coil. So check the output of the coil with the spark test. If still nothing you know it is in the ignition upstream of the coil. Check the input voltage at the coil. If not there keep going back.
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Re: 40 Ford Ignition Woes Flaky ignition switch...
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Re: 40 Ford Ignition Woes just wondering where is the coil mounted had nothing but drama when i went back to a crab turns out the coil was overheating when mounted on the eng moved it to the inner guard problems solved you couldn't touch the coil it was that hot but now gets warm but you can hang on to it
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Re: 40 Ford Ignition Woes We worked on it again last night. Put another new condenser and coil from Napa on it and as usual it started right up. We drove it about 50 feet and it died again. Pulled a plug and checked for spark and none. Turned key on again and checked voltage on the - side of the coil. 6.2 volts present. In my estimation, it has to be the cap, rotor or distributor. What else can it be?
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Re: 40 Ford Ignition Woes Check the ignition switch at the steering column. Take it off and check the contacts. They get corroded and burned and cause a high resistance.
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