Torque wrench
 

This isn't specific to Model As, but that is the challenge du jour. I just replaced an axle shaft, and need to reassemble the carrier. Fortunately I was able to punch the corresponding halves to be sure they went back together correctly, and was able to hold the spider gears in place so they are all back where they belong. The book says to torque the carrier nuts to 30-35 lbs. I have a torque wrench--probably from NAPA- that I haven't used for 15 yrs. It is the type with a knurled handled which you turn to the desired setting, then lock in place with a knob at the bottom. When the setting is reached the handle snaps--very easy to use. However, the nuts never get tight enough to trip the wrench. I set a nut and bolt into the frame of my A to use as a test site, and the wrench trips every time at a modest pressure-35 lbs seems realistic. Having no luck with my wrench, I borrowed a neighbor's. His is the same design, made by Tekton, but my experience is almost the same. In tightening the carrier nuts, I think they are way too tight before tripping the wrench. I was able to trip two, did not dare tighten others any more, then stripped the threads on one before it tripped. Fortunately I have another carrier I can rob nuts and bolts from. Do they still make the torque wrenches with a needle pointer ? What's the problem?

Re: Torque wrench
 

At this point I would set the torque wrench aside and just snug them up real good without over tightening. Sometimes you just have to go by feel.

Re: Torque wrench
 

I agree with Ivan.

If a torque has been sitting around for quite awhile, especially if it hasn't been backed off, it'll need to be exercised quite a but before it'll work right.

Re: Torque wrench
 

Thanks, guys. Mine was stored w/o being backed off, but the neighbor's was backed off all the way. Except for head bolts, I feel more confident with the 'feel' method.

Re: Torque wrench
 

Russel,

the instruction manual for my high-quality 'Hazet' torque wrench says:

"It must always be stored relaxed. After a long period of non-use, it should be set to the highest level and operated 20 - 30 times in a row until it is triggered."

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Surprisingly the harbor freight torque wrenches I tested on the snap on truck were all dead on at several different torque settings

Re: Torque wrench
 

Get new grade 8 bolts and nuts and start over.

Re: Torque wrench
 

There are several ways to easily calibrate a torque wrench. Do a search and take your pick. I use a hand held luggage scale, it literally only takes a minute

Re: Torque wrench
 

Except for large fasteners, mechanics have a good feel for the correct torque.

At a given torque, the stress on the bolt or stud varies depends on whether the nut has been lubricated and what kind of lubrication was used.

Re: Torque wrench
 

There is no technical reason why a torque wrench would not achieve the correct clamping force in any particular task (unless the wrench is out of calibration or, maybe there's a typo in the specifications).

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Maybe a few drops of oil on the head would help after sitting so long.

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There was a comparison test in a magazine (I think it was Hot Rod) a few years ago that said the Harbor Freight torque Wrench to be one of the more accurate ones tested.

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I've had a Sears craftsman torque wrench for 50 years and it started to vary in settings so I went on line and found an article on how to disassemble it, clean it, lube it & put it back together. To reset it, the end of the handle had solder in it, melted that out to access the adjustment knob. Then compared it with 5 other torque wrenches had access to and adjusted accordingly, now it works great, in fact the click feature is very quiet & subtle .

Re: Torque wrench
 

I would say dry or lubed threads come into play. If the threads are lubed, it will take longer to reach the 30-35 foot pound reading, which could result in pulled thread. Charts show 2 readings for each type bolt/nut, dry or lubed. You might try a beam type torque wrench and see if that helps. At this point, would look at the thread on both the nut and bolt to see if they are pulled. Often in the past they may have been over tightened so now you are working with compromised thread, which is not allowing the correct torque.

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Torque beam type torque wrenches can still be found. I'm not sure if they can be found new. Mine are quite old and I like them.

Re: Torque wrench
 

There's lots of new ones available, 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" drive.
I recently picked up an old 3/4" drive one at restore.

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I just ordered a 1/2" drive. After this experience I don't dare trust the adjustables.

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I've been using the same Proto click type 1/2" drive since around 1960, always stored relaxed, never any problems w/it. I test it w/a beam type every few years and it's always bang on.