cowling that supports the gas tank
 

OK Need some help. I would like (I think) to take the front cowling off the car; the one that supports the gas tank. The few reference books I have do not mention how to do this, and it looks like there may be some rivets to grind out. Since I am in a no harm mode, i.e., no bolts or rivets were harmed in the filming of this episode....... I thought i would ask the experts.

Body goes to the soda blaster as soon as I get that cowling off.

What is the secret?

Also, engine comes out tomorrow and heads to the machine shop. It is currently 1/8 over, but the cylinders and pistons are in remarkable shape.:)

Re: cowling that supports the gas tank
 

Depending on the severity of the rust, I would not remove the cowl. You are dealing with R & R of rivets, but if your skills include that sort of thing, proceed. You might also ask your blaster if he or she thinks they can get to your areas of concern without rmoving the cowl.

Re: cowling that supports the gas tank
 

Do you mean your engine is .125 over? That's max. What concerns do you have that you think you need a rebuild?

Re: cowling that supports the gas tank
 

Well regarding the rebuild, it has been sitting for almost 50 years and there is some surface rust on the bores of the cylinders. It is locked up due to probably the oil turning to wax. Basically what I will be doing is freshening up the engine, not really rebuilding. We haven't gotten the crank to turn, so that is next. I think the valves have enough pitting I can see that they will leak by, so that is my thinking.

Regarding the cowl, the welt is in bad shape and needs replacing, that is the main reason to separate the cowl from the body. I guess if we can pry it out that would be better, provided we can get a new welt in

Re: cowling that supports the gas tank
 

I got the wrong pic. Here is a pic of the cowl with the tank removed.

Re: cowling that supports the gas tank
 

I'd take the cowl off before it goes to be blasted, that way the area were the welting goes will be nice and clean. Installing new welting will be a lot easier when the time comes. Bob

Re: cowling that supports the gas tank
 

I see a row of 1/4 inch bolts that attach the cowl to the A pillar. It looks like there are 3 or four small rivets that hold the cowl to the rocker area of the A pillar. I'm guessing they need to be cut. Do the larger rivets along the floorboard seam need to be removed too? I just want to remove what is needed to get the cowl off.

Re: cowling that supports the gas tank
 

Good point.

Re: cowling that supports the gas tank
 

It's been awhile since I removed a cowl, but I don't recall there being any rivits that needed to be removed. With the gas tank removed I think there should only be 5 cowl to door pillar bolts to remove, assuming the 3 front body mounting bolts are out. There is one rivet near the 2 bottom most bolts that doesn't need to be removed as it's only holding the side reinforcement to the cowl panel. The very bottom of the cowl assembly slides under the subframe and they are commonly "stuck" together (and possibly a rivet here also - don't recall) - see attached picture. Good luck.

Re: cowling that supports the gas tank
 

There is one rivet on each side that will need to be removed.
I usually center punch the top of the rivet, then drill down through the top, then use a hammer and chisel to knock off the top of the rivet. Finally, push the lower half of the rivet out of the bottom.

Re: cowling that supports the gas tank
 

Thanks! makes sense. I saw the rivet head, I would guess a 1/4" shank on it.

Re: cowling that supports the gas tank
 

When everything comes home from the blaster prime it well inside and out. I put a coat of paint on the inside of both sides before the welting goes in. I'm not a "Standards" owner but think the cowl was assembled and the body was painted in one shot at the factory. Bob

Re: cowling that supports the gas tank
 

Our un-rebuilt 28 Tudor was repainted by a previous owner in one shot with the welts installed. From what I have read in several posts, the factories also painted over at least some of the welts.

My problem is that the welts show up very badly, almost white against the dark blue (not a good colour) paint. Any hints for remedy without a rebuild, would be appreciated.