Tubular Shock Link
 

Hi all,

The third time I took my car out for a drive after purchasing it, I hit a broken manhole cover with the drivers front wheel.
After looking things over, I saw that the tubular shock link had been blown off the car. So far, the only other thing that seems to not be correct is my shock has up and down play in it at the end of the arm.
I would like to know if there should be some play in the shock, or how I can test it to make sure it is still usable?
What else should I be looking for as far as possible damage?
Any tips on how to install a new shock link?

Thanks for any and all help.
Tom L.

Re: Tubular Shock Link
 

Well, I went out and took a closer look at the shock. If I push up the arm to where it should be with the shock link in place, I have no lateral movement. However, if I pull the arm down past where the link will fit in, I have movement up and down, and a little bit laterally.
Can anyone tell me if my shock is still good to go? Sorry, I ordered a shop manual, but it has not yet arrive.
Also, but might not be related, I have a lot of steering play after hitting the manhole.
Can anyone tell me where to look for damage that might of created more play in the steering?
The steering box had been rebuilt prior to my purchase. Total miles on vehicle is now 110.
Thanks for any and all input.
Tom L.

Re: Tubular Shock Link
 

Your shock arm should move up and down but with quite a bit of resistance. I would take your other shock off and compare the two. It should be very hard to move the arm especially quickly. I would also check over all the linkages from the steering box to the wheels. All should be tight and nothing cracked or bent. Also check that wheel that it is not bent and the toe in is correct. You hit very hard to blow that link off so most likely something else is bent or cracked. If you are new to Model As I would join a club where other could help you out.

Re: Tubular Shock Link
 

With the shock start with checking fluid level, a shock with low fluid will have "free play " up- down, the lateral movement look closely to see if it is loose where it is clamped to the shock(if so tighten), or the shaft moving internally ( probably worn shock), bleeding is done by moving lever to each extreme, when things are correct there's no free play up- down (lost motion), it will be hard to push arm up and very hard to push down-----if you have a copy of the service bulletins there's a article all about shocks, testing/ rebuilding

Re: Tubular Shock Link
 

for steering, start with moving the steering wheel and watching the Pitman arm. That needs to be totally tight where it Attaches to the sector shaft. If the movement is in the steering box, then assuming you have the two tooth, it can be adjusted. The manual you’ve ordered will tell you how to do it. If those are both tight then you’re going to have to check through the drag link and your tie rod fittings etc. to see if the players in there.

Re: Tubular Shock Link
 

The tubular shock link that I once lost was caused by wear on the ball of the shock arm . Wear on the ball of the spring perch can have the same effect .

Re: Tubular Shock Link
 

Thanks everyone for your help.
I will be going into town tomorrow where the car is currently garaged. I will take another look and see what I can find as far as possible damage.
Tom L.

Re: Tubular Shock Link
 

Looked over everything in the suspension and steering and found that the castle nut on the pitman arm pinch bolt was backing out. This caused some slop in the steering.
The odd thing about it, my guess is that the PO forgot to put in a carter pin. The bolt threads are somewhat damaged since it was evidently rocking back and forth while turning the steering wheel. I will order another bolt and castle nut. Hope I didn't damage the sector shaft.
I kind of doubt that this could have occurred from hitting the manhole cover with the front left wheel?
One other thing I noticed is there is slight play when moving the steering wheel back and forth in the ends of the drag link rod and tie rod. I would think there would need to be a little play since they are attached to a ball stud. But should it not be that the hardware inside of the ends should take up nearly all the slop?
Sorry to run on about this, but I need to be sure that nothing other then the shock link was damaged.
Tom L.