33/34 roadster door profile 1 Attachment(s)
The bottom front edge of the door appears not to be flush with the rocker panel. That is at the hinge edge the rocker is mainly "flush" with door but as it moves forward it ends protruding outward from the front door bottom???? (see red arrow in pix) Is this correct ..if so how much??? Can someone post a pix of view of closed door looking down from the door handle???
Thank you very much |
Re: 33/34 roadster door profile The door outer panel should be flush with the quarter panel at the hinges and with the cowl side at the front, but not flush with the rocker panel, which is a continuation of the lower body molding of the cowl and quarter panel. The "how much" is determined by the thickness of the lower body molding compared to the body sheet metal directly above the molding on the cowl side and quarter panel side. No photo will accurately convey that, but the use of a depth micrometer or even a good ruler will.
It sounds like your rocker panel at the B or hinge pillar is inward from where it should be. |
Re: 33/34 roadster door profile 1 Attachment(s)
David
Do the USA open cars "not" have an adjustment truss rod with a turnbuckle in the middle to help "align"/"Shape" the door like pictured below??? |
Re: 33/34 roadster door profile 1 Attachment(s)
Robert,
Originally there was a steel strap running from corner to corner to help maintain the door's profile as shown in the photo below, but no turnbuckle. In restorations, some add turnbuckles. In this situation it seemingly would not help as the problem is not at the front of the door but rather at the back of the door where there is very little 'give' below the hinge. |
Re: 33/34 roadster door profile Two footnotes here.
First, the Australian doors are shorter than the US doors and do not hang below the floor level, there is a splash apron used on the Oz cars between the running board and the body, not on North American cars where the doors hang below the frame level and the bottom of the rocker aligns with the running boards. Second, my understanding is the Steve's Auto Restoration steel bodies differ a little from original in the door area, enough to cause interchange challenges but not easy for most people to visualize on a finished car. |
Re: 33/34 roadster door profile 1 Attachment(s)
Quote:
As I went back and looked our Aussie Ute has the"strap" you speak of!!!! |
Re: 33/34 roadster door profile Karl,
But the body and door in question were North American in origin, both from the photo and from what I recall of Ed Solari's previous postings on his project. |
Re: 33/34 roadster door profile Quote:
Quite true, my answer was to be pertinent to someone down the road who might review this thread, especially if we were not to be around to answer! |
Re: 33/34 roadster door profile Good point! As the new Club '33-'34 book will be international in scope, like the Club, there will be extensive coverage devoted to the Australian versions as well as those that were produced in Europe thanks to local major contributors. Not to be left out, the unique factory paint options in Canada for '33s will also be included. This assumes the lead author will live long enough to complete it.
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Re: 33/34 roadster door profile 1 Attachment(s)
My observations of door alignment on a roadster is that the door sits out from the sill about 1/8 starting just before your arrow and ends up flush with the B pillar at the hinge.more or less what David saying Ted
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Re: 33/34 roadster door profile This gap is determined by the curve in the lower door wood as well . Ted.
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Re: 33/34 roadster door profile Quote:
Quite true, my answer was to be pertinent to someone down the road who might review this thread, especially if we were not to be around to answer! |
Re: 33/34 roadster door profile Don't make the mistake like I did , I think final screwing of the door wood should take place with the door mounted on the car with a gap at the top front of approximately 1/4. As has been said the strap pulls the door front in but is often assisted by a turn buckle .Ted
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Re: 33/34 roadster door profile 1 Attachment(s)
This is what Karl is talking about ,
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Re: 33/34 roadster door profile Does the inside handle go straight up vertically, or horizontally?
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Re: 33/34 roadster door profile I did mine in the 1970's, horizontal.
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Re: 33/34 roadster door profile https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...p;d=1540446687https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...p;d=1540446687https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...p;d=1540446687
The above photos are of a well used 1933-1934 Australian Ford Open Car Door. Notice the diagonal brace is straight with no pressings for strength stamped into it, very agricultural on the part of Ford Australia. The USA Braces have a crease stamped into it for added strength. The last photo shows the bottom side of this door, which is different from the USA equivalent. I hope that these photos are educational. |
Re: 33/34 roadster door profile https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/attac...p;d=1540447368
For comparison, here is a picture of an American 1933 Ford Roadster open car door with the lining removed. As you can see, that Diagonal Brace has a crease stamped into it, much more professional than the brace supplied by Ford Australia. Seems the owner of this Roadster has added a safety catch to stop the door from flying open. |
Re: 33/34 roadster door profile Trevor,
I think that the photo that I posted above is a better example of the North American (both Canada and the U.S., not just the latter) inner door construction. Why not enlarge it? |
Re: 33/34 roadster door profile Ed you can also lessen the gap by shimming underneath the B pillar casting where it meets the floor.
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