Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

It works too well. I just put my second flathead engine in my 50 car and drove it into town. Yesterday was about 90 degrees out, both banks stayed at about 160 for 10 miles. I had the same mechanical gauges in with my first engine, it would stay at about 180.

Both engines have 180 thermostats; first one was Motorad from Rock Auto, this engine Stant from Napa. Could it be the 1/8" holes I drilled in these Stants? I read too much, and had decided those holes were a good idea. Also, this block might be cleaner than the first engine.

I don't like offshore junky parts any better than anyone else, but this Champion radiator got me on the road for less that $200. I guess I just wonder if I should try different 180 thermostats? Thanks!

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

1/8" holes are probably okay. I usually do about 1/2 that size. To help eliminate any air pockets. Generally about 1/16". The larger holes will probably just take a little longer to get to the 180 deg.

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

Try new thermostats and don't drill any holes. Don't try to out engineer the engineers. I tried drilling holes in them with the same results.

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

Just solder the holes up if it's brass. If steel, put a dab of JBWeld or RTV on the hole's pressure side. See how it heats up with the holes plugged. Sounds more like you got 160*F stats.Perhaps miss-labelled? Jack E/NJ

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

As far as I know Stats in a modern car circulate the water around in a circle ,doesn't go through the Radiator until its warmed up so having no holes is less of a problem ,a by pass hole maybe built in to the casting ,Not sure . If you use these states in a Flathead you need to get rid of the cold water so they open ,I go along with what Sid says ,drill no more than a 1-1/8 hole and make shour you have a clamp around them ,if they leak it will run cold longer .In operation until warmed the gauge should come up then drop suddenly ,Sorry but Just my Esperance that's all .

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

How would you put a "clamp around them" on a '50 8BA engine?

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

Oh yes ,You don't need a clamp on a 8BA the stats in the head ,just make sure they don't leak ,Thanks for the correction 36 ,

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

Check the thermostats in a pan on the stove. Use a thermometer to measure the opening temp.

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

My guess is that you're getting too much water through the 1/8" hole - you'd be surprised how much can flow. I'd start with no holes and if you have any issues with steam pockets, then drill with a 1/16 and see what happens.

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

A lot of people would like to have your problem. :)

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

boy I would be happy

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

I get the feeling hes drilled a few 1/8 ,? I had two 3-3/2 in each of mine and it stayed cold for to long ,

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

160 is too cool, cool is not good.

"My guess is that you're getting too much water through the 1/8" hole - you'd be surprised how much can flow."

Hard as it is to believe, there have been a lot of post in the past about thermostats not working correctly after having holes drilled in them.

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

Thanks everybody, this is interesting. Seeing the gauges go up to about 180 and then dropping is just what I'm NOT seeing, as I did see with the other engine. I believe I'll take the advice to pull these stats out and do something. But the engine is so pretty right now! Not a single drop of stray coolant anywhere after about 30 miles on it and now I gotta make a big dam mess.

That first engine I mentioned, I had a brand new TO bearing from a trusted parts seller go out after 70 miles, so this was the excuse to pull the whole works out. That engine is soon to go in my 46 pickup.

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

If you look really close at the thermostats sometimes they already have a small bypass vent built in. If not a hole with a jiggle pin, I have seen them where the seat where the movable part seals against has a small v in it. (Imagine like a bad valve seat).

I wouldn't start drilling holes until I see a problem with the as-bought items.

Mart.

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

From my point of view, drilling holes in a thermostat is in the same catigory as removing every other blade from the impeller on the water-pump, and/or using a large washer in lieu of a thermostat.
I liked the earlier comment, "don't try to out engineer the engineers"
When I worked as an auto mechanic during the early/mid 50's, checking new thermostats in a pan of water over s hot plate with a thermostat was SOP... I was amazing how many new stats were defective.. Generally speaking a new stat will start to open prior to the set temp, be fully open at or near the set temp.

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

I have stants with drilled holes (size oldhenry recommended) in my fire engine. It runs down the road at 160. Operating the fire pump on an 80 degree day with elevated rpm for the pump it still runs at 160. Mechanical gauge on passenger side. FWIW

Re: Problem with My Aluminum Radiator
 

I recommend trying 180 T-stats from Robert Shewman (at [email protected]). These are the best performing T-stats I've ever used on my late flathead.