Just removed 31 torque tube
 

Now that I have the tube off is there anything that I should be doing or checking in the rear end?

Re: Just removed 31 torque tube
 

Make sure the ears on the lock tab between the two pinion bearing nuts on the drive shaft are bent over in alternating directions. Some repo tabs are too short and do not bend over the nuts far enough to hold. Consequently, the nuts work loose. 'Happened to a friend's 1929 Cabriolet. Try finding an original lock tab if possible.
Marshall

Re: Just removed 31 torque tube
 

Inspect the bearing and bearing race in the front end of the torque tube.

Re: Just removed 31 torque tube
 

The race needs to be pounded out from the rear. I use a long broom handle, or the drive shaft and a big hammer.

Re: Just removed 31 torque tube
 

Replace the roller bearing and race at the front end of the tube. Grease the bearing well before installing it.

Inspect the universal joint for play. Should be zero play. If it is the old non-rebuildable universal, change it to the later design.

Make sure that the universal joint is securely bolted to the transmission's output shaft with the special washer in place.

Make sure that the pinion gear is tight on the driveshaft, and that the nut retaining it is tight and secured.

Although Ford did not use a gasket between the tube and the differential housing, install one.

Re: Just removed 31 torque tube
 

When "buzzing" along, I always think about tightening those PINION nuts, by BANGIN' on 2 BIG wrenches, that look like they were TORCHED out of plate steel. "Seems" like a kinda' RINKY-DINK method!!!
In a '50 Ford, Pats' Brothers' pinion nut worked loose, LOCKED the rear end & did MULTIPLE 360s, at 70 MPH, on Highway 101!!!
Bill Worry

Re: Just removed 31 torque tube
 

Thanks guys.

Bob, when you say special washer do you mean the one with the holes in it?

Marshall, I will take some pics to show what I have.

Re: Just removed 31 torque tube
 

Before doing any replacing of the seals/bearing in torque tube....CLEAN the inside of tube of grime/grit and rust !

Re: Just removed 31 torque tube
 

Also check the speedo drive gear and related parts for proper sequence and sliding movement and that the universal clamshells surfaces are smooth and clean to receive, seals, gaskets, etc.

Re: Just removed 31 torque tube
 

I do not know what the situation is like now, but at one time the quality of the repro bearing and sleeve in the front of the torque tube was very poor. Before removing the original race check with vendors about the quality of the repro parts.

Re: Just removed 31 torque tube
 

A number of years ago the reproduction bearing race sleeves were horrible. Everything about them was wrong. Eventually Bratton's had some decent ones reproduced and they work ok. However, most of the originals are still serviceable. Many of the original bearing are also serviceable. The original bearing roller elements were good quality with spiral grooves. I have reused many of the originals if they have not become pitted. The reproduction bearings have solid roller elements.

The bearing sleeve and seal can be removed from the torque tube by placing a 1&1\16" six point 1\2" drive socket over the splined end of a Model A drive shaft. The splines will slide right into the socket. Stand the drive shaft up vertical with the splined end up. Slide the torque tube over it and bounced it a few times. Hold a rag over the end to catch the cruddy seal and sleeve. Be sure and install the new seal first before you reinstall the sleeve.

Tom Endy

Re: Just removed 31 torque tube
 

Following up on what Ed posted, the double race in the banjo should not just fall out or be able to be pushed out by your hand. It should be a near-press fit so that it does not spin inside the front flange. I have seen them where the race literally fell on the floor because it was an improperly made under-sized foreign piece of junk that was sold in the 1970's and 1980's in this country.
I don't see that anyone mentioned checking the preload on the two front bearings. The drive shaft should not be able to spin freely. It should have pretty good resistance so that you can still turn the driveshaft with two fingers. If it spins freely, you'll need to tighten the two nuts, especially the one closer to the pinion gear. That's the one that really determines the preload. The second nut merely keeps the first one from backing off. The multi-eared lock tab between them keeps the two nuts from backing off, especially the one closer to the U-joint.
Marshall
Marshall

Re: Just removed 31 torque tube
 

The press in sleeve/race has a "bump" on it which engages a divit in the torque tube neck . These must be aligned before fitting as even if slightly adrift the roller race will not have the correct clearance . After tightening the pinion bearing lock nut check the preload again as it presses in the inner nut against the threads and will increase the preload slightly .

John in gray rainy morning Suffolk County England .